Start with some slick and thin bouldery moves out onto the opening face and then up to a nose overhang with lots of feature, some of which is sharp and slick, to a hangerless bolt (that is to the left about half of the way up). Continue up a very thin and technical face with no pro to the top. For an easier yet fun variation(5.10), start on Wisconsin and move right after about 15' around and up on jugs past the nose, and then continue to the right to gain a crack and arete for some protection and some easier climbing. A top rope is recommended.
Location
This route is located directly to the east (right) of Wisconsin.
By M.Hoffman From: Los Alamos , NM Oct 6, 2008 rating: 5.12a X
Ive only tr'ed this. an actual lead up this would be impressive! great moves! big air between pro.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Oct 7, 2008
According to Cam Burn's history section in the intro to 'Jemez Rock', Roybal climbed this in 1974 and it was the first 5.12 climbed in New Mexico and one of the first few at this grade in the country. It adds that he also TR'd it with a broken foot later that year (does this mean the first time was on lead?). If you're thinking of leading this climb [I'm not, maybe next year], be sure to replace the hanger on the bolt midway up before you give'r a go.
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