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(23) Fat Boys Don't Fly 
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(23) Fat Boys Don't Fly 

5.12

   

FA: Bob D'Antonio
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12 [details]
Length: 40 feet
Views: 132 page views

Submitted By: Jason Hundhausen on Mar 21, 2009


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Description 

This is the first bolted route to the right of (21) Instant Dogma. Start atop a short ledge and set off up the overhanging face, working your way up a series of crimps and shallow (some sharp) pockets. Find a decent ledge at the third bolt, then get to figuring out how you're going to get past the steep, seemingly blank crux headwall. The original Samet guide suggests that going left here (there's a pretty good side pull) makes the route 5.12a, while going right and dynoing up to the good ledge high and right makes the route 5.12c. This, to me, is like saying, "If you skip that good hold, the route is a lot harder," which is fine if that good hold is clearly off-route, but in this case, it's not, so I'm a bit confused. Continue up on easier, but slightly loose, terrain to gain the ledge. This route shares anchors with (22) Unknown (5.9).


Location 

Route #23 in the beta photo.


Protection 

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 26, 2009

Cool route. Continuous overhanging climbing on a mix of pockets, only a few of which are of the "thank-god" variety. The crux section near the top felt pretty damn tough, although only for a couple moves, where you reach a pretty good ledge. The dyno that I think Samet is referring to would be sick to stick (and a big one!), but makes no sense as there's a decent side-pull up left, which is certainly on-route. Having very little experience with White Rock 12s, I can't say what I think the grade is, but I agree with George that it's quite a bit harder than Wailing Banshees or Flesh-Eating Gnats.