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South Side, Big Enchilada
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(00) Chimney 
(01) Offwidth/chimney 
(01.5) Dihedral 
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(20) Headjam 
(21) Route 21 
(22) Route 22 
(23) Route 23 

(20) Headjam 

5.9

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 50 feet
Views: 108 page views

Submitted By: Jason Hundhausen on Mar 21, 2009


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Description 

Begin by stemming your way up an ever-steepening obvious wide slot (this is where the 4" piece may come in handy, although smaller gear options exist deeper in the fissure). Pull through the bulge, gain the ledge, and continue up the broken dihedral (same finish as for Route 19).


Location 

Route #20 in Chen/Wehner, as shown on the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #22 (5.9) and Jackson #11 (5.9).


Protection 

Standard rack up to 3" (4" optional at bottom) to a 2-bolt anchor.



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By George Perkins
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 22, 2009
rating: 5.9

The easiest way to climb up to an anchor on this route is to begin as for "Route 21", moving left midway up. Probably this goes at 5.8, as it skips the cruxes of either route.