Up a bouldery start (crux) with tricky protection to a good ledge. The clean right-facing dihedral above is excellent and well-protected. The first obstacle is turning a 2' roof with jugs to a lieback, followed by sustained stemming in the corner. A brief and easier offwidth section concludes the climb.
Location
Route #17 as shown in the South Side beta photo. Note, however, that this is listed as Route #16 in the Chen/Wehner online guide.
This climb is also listed as Beverly #19 (5.10c) and Jackson #15 (5.10a).
Protection
Standard rack to 2.5 inches. 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Mar 22, 2009 rating: 5.10a
If you want to avoid the bouldery cruxy start to this climb but still enjoy the upper half at 5.9... Begin with the blocks/flakes as for climb 18, then move left on the ledge 20' up.
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