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New New Place
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(02.1) Crap On 
(02.2) Unnamed 
(02.3) Beginner's 
(04) Avalauncher 
(05) Flare 
(06) Sharon's Sandbag 
(06.1) Sharon's Lead 
(07) Half Moons (aka Clockwork) 
(09) Rumsey's Lead 
(11) Batshit Crack 
(12) Pure Thoughts (aka Open Book) 
(13) Thumb Action 
(14) Phone Booth 
(16) Have a Nice Day Yucca 
(17) Twin Cracks 
(18) Hard Crack 

(11) Batshit Crack 

5.10b

   

FA: Steve Schum and Mike Roybal probably
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 65 feet
Views: 166 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Aug 12, 2008


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Description 

Clearly the best line at the NNP, Batshit Crack is the most continuously sustained crack here, don't be discouraged by the name- it's nowhere near as shitfilled as some at WR. It begins as moves requiring hand jams to a short section moving into a body-size flare that has less than ideal protection. Above, a steep hand crack section is probably the well-protected crux. 10-15' of OW finishes the climb.

Liebacking is a good substitute for technique on this climb.


Location 

Batshit Crack is the obvious crack in the left-facing corner at the tallest central part of the New New Place.


Protection 

1 set cams up to a #4 camalot.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.



Comments on (11) Batshit Crack Add Comment
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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 19, 2009
rating: 5.10b

Liebacking is a fine technique on it's own, man. :)