Rattlesnake Crack is a local 5.11 trad classic. The crux is protected by small gear, which makes it a little scary, but the gear is solid. Difficulty has been variably rated from 5.11a to 5.11c in different sources.
Head up to the undercling flake (1 height dependent move). Place pro underneath the flake (small nuts or smallest cams; slider nuts/Lowe Balls reportedly are best) and traverse left. A finger jam in a pocket at the corner allows one to place a very small cam or bomber brass nut to protect the next move, which is the crux smear with undercling hands, then tenuous gaston/lieback moves on the arete. (Some locals believe these crux smear moves have become more polished by traffic and more difficult over the years.) Once the crack in the back opens wide enough to accomodate fingers, you're through the crux with a sharp flake to de-pump. From here, most of the rest of the climb is no harder than 5.10. First, a steep section passed by liebacking up a finger/thin hand crack. The next section has good feet with thin hand crack and a couple places large enough to accomodate a hand jam and rest, while you're in an airy position. For the final section of the climb, the crack thins and nearly disappears but has enough spots for nuts for pro, and the rock takes on the pocketed character of White Rock basalt. Here, you'll find small footholds, one- or two-finger pockets, or just lean your shoulder into the corner while working your feet up.
One local recently stated that he was skeptical that anyone had led this climb in recent years, but the truth is more climbers have been stepping up recently, as the pro is all there.
A direct start in a seam 10' left of the undercling is reportedly 5.12.
Location
You can identify this route from above by looking for the big flat rock at its base. From below, the clean face with the left-trending undercling traverse is apparent. It's also the next climb to the right of Sine Wave , an obvious S-shaped crack.
Protection
Nuts: 1 set, including micros Cams: 1 ea. from tiny to #1 camalot, with doubles of #0.75 camalot and #0.5 camalot recommended.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.
It's not a great route for toproping, because falls at the crux leave the climber dangling and unable to reestablish on the rock.
Photos of (14) Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) Slideshow
One of the coolest routes I've been on and a must do if at the Old New Place. Intriguing and challenging crux to a "thank god" hold; then a very fun crack from there on. Books I've seen rate this as "sandbagged 5.11b/c" for which I concur...with the sandbagged part.
One more thing: while it's true that when toproping this route it is difficult/impossible to get back on at the crux, one just needs to keep swinging and lower a couple feet to the large undercling. Granted, this doesn't allow for a complete hang-dog ascent because to move up you have to pull the moves - but that's why you're on it, right?
RSS Feed
Slideshow
