Old New Place

BETA PHOTO: Old New Place route guide. (I couldn't fit the rou...

Description 

The Old New Place is an east-facing basalt wall about 60 feet in height that offers many great crack lines for gear-protected leading or top roping. There are now bolted anchors here as a result of trees traditionally used here as anchors dying. Additionally, blocks and crack near the cliff edge can be use to establish gear anchors.
The ONP doesn't see a lot of traffic but there are some wonderful crack lines to be climbed here.
Like all the areas in White Rock canyon, placement of new bolts is strongly discouraged as per a long-standing agreement of local climbers. The Los Alamos Mountaineers maintain a copy of the original agreement (1989) along with the amended agreement (2004) that allows for bolted anchors but still discourages new bolted lines.

Getting There 

From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs following a good climber's trail down off the top of the cliff. As you start to descend off the cliff top, the Old New Place will be visible as the large cliff face to your left. Descend about 30 feet on the climber's trail and head left along the base of the cliff.

The Classics

Featured Route For Old New Place

(14) Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) 5.11  NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Old New Place

Rattlesnake Crack is a local 5.11 trad classic. The crux is protected by small gear, which makes it a little scary, but the gear is solid. Difficulty has been variably rated from 5.11a to 5.11c in different sources.Head up to the undercling flake (1 height dependent move). Place pro underneath the flake (small nuts or smallest cams; slider nuts/Lowe Balls reportedly are best) and traverse left. A finger jam in a pocket at the corner...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Old New Place Slideshow

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We found this chopped bolt at the base of the ONP ...

Marino Gonzales free soloing next to a perfectly ...