Probably the longest climb at the Playground, with sustained quality climbing. The Blow Hole is one of the only climbs at the Playground that doesn't have the big ledge near the top of the cliff interrupting it.
An immediate crux is the first 15', where you climb a finger crack with poor feet; this spits off many suitors. Place a good small cam (#0.3 camalot or equivalent) to keep from decking on the rocks! You can avoid this by an indirect start from the left by stemming between 2 cracks, or move in from even farther left with hands in a big pod. The next 15' is easy, follow the finger crack to a unique pocket in the cliff on the left side (the Blow Hole). A second crux is the lieback-to-mantle moves beginning with the Blow Hole at foot level and ending when you're on a big ledge to the left. This section is well-protected with cams and med. nuts. The rest of the climb follows easier cracks with a more holds on the faces nearby; there is a little bit of rubble near the very top, but it's no big deal.
Falls near the start can be particularly nasty, and at least one accident has occurred here (have your belayer spot you to keep you off the rocks). Falls at the upper crux are clean and airy but on solid gear.
Location
This climb is located at the far right of the Playground, at the rightmost place with sandy ground (before the boulder gully begins).
Protection
1 set wired nuts, 1 set cams to 3". If you haven't set it in advance, the anchor at the top can be constructed easily with 1-3" cams, or static rope tied to dying trees.
By LeeAB Administrator From: ABQ, NM Mar 1, 2009 rating: 5.10+
There is a big rock to the right of the finger crack start near a blunt arete, you can stem into the crack from this rock and place a high piece, yellow alien or TCU, before getting started. This will protect you through pretty much the whole opening section.
There is actually quite a bit of suspect rock above the crux for maybe the next 15' or so, then the rock improves again up higher.
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