(14) Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) 

FA:  ? Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11a/b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 60 feet Views: 604 page views Submitted By: George Perkins on Jul 19, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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George Perkins looking solid on his first clean se...

Description 

A beautiful slightly-overhanging-but-locker finger crack with 'just enough' footholds on the face goes to a bulge where the rock changes texture near the top. Here, a solitary hand jam provides a welcome rest before a couple of thin, cruxy face moves to easier ground. Bear a little to the right up high to reach the anchors.

Originally rated 5.11c/d, but general consensus is that this is a notch or two easier.

At least 2 longtime LA climbers swear this crack was not called Manic Crack back in the day.. that this and the crack to its right (now called Lost Nerve in the guidebooks) were referred to as the Twin Cracks.

Location 

Obvious slightly overhanging finger crack just right of the Banshees bolted arete climb.

Protection 

Rack of cams from a #0.3 camalot to a #2 camalot; some may want 1-3 extras of #0.4 camalot size. Nuts also may be useful, if you can hang on to place 'em.
At the top, angle to the right from the top to the 2-bolt anchor for Manic Nirvana (the sport climb just to the right).

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George Perkins placing a piece to protect the crux...