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(30) Beginner's Hand Jam 

5.9

   

FA: Carl Horak & Lou Horak, 1971 or '72?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 632 page views

Submitted By: Mark Mathis on Jul 19, 2007


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Despite the name, near the top the route is a nice...


Description 

The best route here at this grade. Perfect hands for ~20ft to a ledge, then small hands to fingers on increasingly thinner ground to the belay ledge.


Location 

Find the perfect hand crack towards the right hand side of the cliff. Belay from the top and walk off (to the right).


Protection 

No bolts, a 2-bolt anchor [is sometimes] found on the ledge. Standard light trad rack (set of nuts, set of cams).



Photos of (30) Beginner's Hand Jam Slideshow Add Photo
Bill above the all-too-short hand jamming and enjoying the middle section of the route. January 2009.

Bill above the all-too-short hand jamming and enjo...

Beginner's Hand Jam

Beginner's Hand Jam

Devin Shunk ready for the business on Beginner's Hand Jam. March 2009.

Devin Shunk ready for the business on Beginner's H...


Comments on (30) Beginner's Hand Jam Add Comment
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By caughtinside
From: Berkeley, CA
Aug 15, 2007

Too bad the anchor bolts got chopped. The climbing and the gear at the top stinks.

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 13, 2007
rating: 5.9

I agree that it's unfortunate that the bolted anchors at the top got chopped, but the pro at the top (after you top out) is very good and very solid--stoppers and #2-#3 Camalots go well.

By Logan Eckhardt
From: Albuquerque
Jan 31, 2008

Call the local Radio Shack and ask for Mr. Horak. I'm sure he could tell you who did the FA on many of these you have questions about.

By George Perkins
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 8, 2009
rating: 5.9

The anchor on Unrelenting 9s was also chopped recently (also, for the 2nd time). All other bolted anchors at the crag are still present, and it appears that no attempt was made to patch the holes.

I don't want to again discuss the ethics of whether a bolted anchor should be on top of these climbs or others at White Rock. These disagreements have been going on for years, despite 2 community consensus agreements.

I would like to see removed hardware returned to the person who paid for it.

If the people who chopped these bolts (which had been up for 8+ months) in the last 2 weeks see this message, please contact the local climbing organization, the LA Mountaineers, or contact me, and the gear will get returned to the appropriate person, and in exchange, you can have your karma back.

George Perkins