Tigger overly scared on this classic. No, its not ...
Description
Quality stemming on good rock.
Stem the open book under the big roof, finding ledges on pockets on the side walls. The seam in the corner provides adequate protection, RPs or other tiny nuts are helpful. Higher the crack widens rewarding the climber with hand jams just before you reach the roof.
Originally, at the roof, one would make a huge stem to the right with your own gear placements under the roof; turn the corner and a move later reach the anchors shared with Flesh-Eating Gnats. Now, many climbers just stop at the roof, clipping the anchors for Pathogenic Cysts to the right, or Ralph's Leisure Suit to the left. Doing this is advantageous in that one can more easily clean his or her gear while lowering, but disadvantage is being shortchanged as you miss out on the fun roof traverse, which might be the crux of the complete route.
Location
The obvious open book under the big roof (to the right of Leisure Suit and Polyester Terror; to the left of Flesh Eating Gnats)
Protection
Nuts and cams to 2". Those wanting to really sew it up will want micronuts and tiny cams.
Use the fixed 2-bolt anchor for Flesh-Eating Gnats, or the 2-bolt anchors below the roof for Pathogenic Cysts.
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