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(00) Castle Greyskull 
(01) Phrenology 
(02) Brave Little Toaster 
(03) Meltdown 
(04) Evil Elliot (aka Battering Ram) 
(05) Evil Alchemist 
(06) Siege Warfare 
(07) Dragon's Lair 
(08) Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) 
(09) Death Drives a Stick 
(10) Gangland 
(11) Loose Cannon 
(12) The Catapult 
(14) Moat Jump 
(15) Moat Pump 
(16) Rogue Warrior 

(10) Gangland 

5.12b

   

FA: Peter Gram
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
Length: 65 feet
Views: 421 page views

Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Aug 18, 2008


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Description 

Start up steep rock with jugs, pulling a few big moves off of underclings. Once on the face the holds shrink with the angle, and a few sequency moves appear. Snag a mediocre rest, and pull the crux thin face moves, to easier ground up to the anchors.

There seem to be many extensions to this route, Apparently if you get to the upper anchors on Loose Cannon it is 12c, and if you make it to the very top it is considered 12d. Although from the obvious anchors for Gangland, this didn't seem real obvious, looks like you would break right before clipping the Gangland anchors to get to the anchors on Loose Cannon.

Sometimes called Excalibur, but apparently Gangland was the original name.


Location 

In the center of the wall, Between Against Nature and Loose Cannon.


Protection 

6 Bolts to first anchor, several (5)? more if continuing up to the very top of the cliff.