Begin up an interesting section on fractured rhyolite to a small ledge. Move up and left through a large scooped-out dish, then get some fun exposure as you make your way out and around the edge onto the face (crux). Continue up the positive face until the rock turns vertical; find the buckets and clip the chains.
Location
Center-stage of the Black Wall, which is directly across the stream from the Main Wall.
This route was bolted by rich strang. it's pretty fun and thin!
By Daniel Trugman From: Los Alamos, NM Feb 4, 2009 rating: 5.11a
The rock is a little bit flaky which makes the crux section on microedge footholds and crimper handholds a little bit scary. Still, this is a cool, long route with interesting moves. Nice no-hands rest before committing to the harder moves up and over the left trending ramp. Not like you need it at that point, but I just like no-hands rests :)