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DescriptionThere is a great array of crags near the town of Los Alamos, on the various rhyolite outcrops and canyons nearby. The Dungeon area is the hardman sport climbing area nearby and sees frequent visits, but most of the other areas are rather obscure and have very little information published in guidebooks. Though local climbers have been climbing in the Back Rocks/Clifty areas above Los Alamos for over 50 years, White Rock became the more popular local destination sometime in the 1970s and most locals climb mainly at White Rock or the Dungeon. For those who don't mind hiking 10-15 minutes, the crags and canyons in Los Alamos are definitely worth exploring and have a lot of potential. Getting ThereFrom I-25, head either north or south toward Santa Fe (depending on where you are coming from), and get onto highway 285/84 toward Pojoaque. From Pojoaque head west on highway 502. Highway 502 will take you to the Los Alamos/White Rock split. Follow highway 501 to Los Alamos, and look at individual area directions from there. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Los Alamos Crags:
(03) Trash Disco 5.10a/b Sport, 35 feet The Dungeon : Trash Tower
Pleasure Cruise 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet The Dungeon : The Fin Wall
Rampage 5.11a Sport, 60 feet The Dungeon : Black Wall
(06) Weenies Go Like This (aka Garbageman) 5.11b Sport, 35 feet The Dungeon : Trash Tower
(14) Moat Jump 5.12a Sport The Dungeon : Main Wall
(11) Crimp Chimp 5.12a Sport, 40 feet The Dungeon : 45° Boulder
(10) Tendon Bendin' (aka Tendon Bender) 5.12b Sport, 35 feet The Dungeon : 45° Boulder
(08) Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) 5.12b Sport, 80 feet The Dungeon : Main Wall
(03) Meltdown 5.12b Sport, 30 feet The Dungeon : Main Wall
(07) Little Evil (aka Slope a Dope) 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet The Dungeon : 45° Boulder
(10) Gangland 5.12b Sport, 65 feet The Dungeon : Main Wall
(15) Moat Pump 5.12c Sport, 75 feet The Dungeon : Main Wall
(04) Beastmaster 5.12c/d Sport, 45 feet The Dungeon : 45° Boulder
(06) Siege Warfare 5.12c/d Sport The Dungeon : Main Wall
(11) Loose Cannon 5.13a Sport The Dungeon : Main Wall
(05) Evil Alchemist 5.13a Sport The Dungeon : Main Wall
Featured Route For Los Alamos Crags
(11) Loose Cannon 5.13a NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Main Wall
Maybe the best line on the wall, marred only by the fact that the crux is particularly desperate, which is why there is a chain draw for bailing off of if in the middle if you can't do the crux. Starts right of Peter's route and works up and right to a few crimpy and technical moves right to deposit you underneath the chain draw. At least 2 solutions to the crux exist. One very powerful, one very crimpy and still powerful. Climb ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM |