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(06) Siege Warfare 
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(05) Evil Alchemist 

5.13a

   

FA: Matt Samet, bolted by Luke Laeser
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.13a [details]
Views: 414 page views

Submitted By: Matthew NM on Jul 2, 2007


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Ben at the crux of Evil Alchemist


Description 

Climb the steep underbelly of the low roof left of Siege Warfare's start up to a good kneebar and some thuggy moves out right onto the face. The difficulty eases up there and a few technical moves take you to the anchor. This is the farthest left route on the main wall's front face. There is a terrible 11-something to the left of this route around the corner, but you don't want to climb it...


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bolts



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By Laeserguns
Jul 24, 2008

I bolted this route after climbing the Evil Elliot route to the left. At the time we thought it was about 13a. Matt Samet made the first ascent of this one on his first trip to the dungeon and agreed on the grade, but he didn't use any knee bars.

By Jean
Jul 27, 2008

I'll second Luke's opinion on the rating. 12c, hummmm..... Who's the consensus?

By Matthew NM
Apr 7, 2009

Regarding the grade and the beta, I used what seemed like an obvious kneebar on my right leg to turn the "lip" of the bottom steep section which made a desparately powerful move for me something that I could almost no-hands in the middle of with the kneebar. With this beta the route went down 2nd try for me at a time when I was truly maxed climbing at .12+ leading me to believe that .13a couldn't be accurate.

I am certain that this route would feel much harder than .12c without this beta although I never did try to repeat it either way.