BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Main Wall at The Dungeon.
Description
The large overwhelming, overhung cliff on the left side of the canyon. This cliff steals the show with great, though difficult routes.
Stick-clipping the 2nd bolt on most of these routes is a common practice. (This is because the ground level is now much higher at the base of the climbs and decking is more of a possibility; much sediment filled in following the 2000 fire.)
Getting There
Follow the directions to the Dungeon climbing area.
Routes
Routes from Left to Right, all grades are from Beverly's Jemez Rock Guide, although things might be a little easier than indicated.
Maybe the best line on the wall, marred only by the fact that the crux is particularly desperate, which is why there is a chain draw for bailing off of if in the middle if you can't do the crux. Starts right of Peter's route and works up and right to a few crimpy and technical moves right to deposit you underneath the chain draw. At least 2 solutions to the crux exist. One very powerful, one very crimpy and still powerful. Climb ...[more]Browse More Classics in NM
Routes from Left to Right, all grades are from Beverly's Jemez Rock Guide, although things might be a little easier than indicated.
01 Castle Greyskull V4, Boulder Traverse 02 Phrenology 11b, Chossy Slab 03 Meltdown 12c, Short and Sustained with a fun finish 04 Evil Elliot 11d, Also called Battering Ram?? 05 Evil Alchemist 5.13a, Start on Seige Warfare and head up and left after the second bolt. 06 Siege Warfare 5.12c/d, Steep Start, to crimpfest pulling lip 07 Dragon's Lair 5.13c, Extension of Siege Warfare thru roof 08 Peter's Route 5.12b, aka Against Nature, Steep Start to classic headwall 09 Death Drives a Stick 5.13b/c, Extension of Peter's Route 10 Excalibur 5.12c, aka Gangland 11 Loose Cannon 5.13b, Steep to a hard crux 12 The Catapult 5.13b, shares crux with Loose Cannon 13 Roof Finish 5.13b/c, Roof Finish for Excalibur, Loose Cannon, and The Catapult 14 Moat Jump 5.12a, The classic route on the wall 15 Moat Pump 5.12d, Hard moves, then joins Moat Jump 16 Rogue Warrior 5.12b, Powerful Start to Join Moat Jump 17 Couch Warrior 5.12a, Doesn't look like it gets climbed much.
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