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The Dungeon

Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Aug 6, 2006
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, George Perkins
Elevation: 6,219 feet
Latitude: 35.8675  Longitude: -106.3570 
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A busy night at the Dungeon main wall. Allison (wi...


Description 

Home to primo, rhyolite sport climbing (for detailed geological information, see comments). Some of the best steep routes in New Mexico. The area has over 30 sport routes, though around 23 of them are 5.12 and up. There are around 13 below 5.12.

In contrast to White Rock, this area is a nice summer area. The Main Wall is shaded all day, and can even be climbed during rain storms.


Getting There 

Drive into Los Alamos via Highway 502 (Main Hill Road). After passing the airport, continue on Trinity Boulevard to Diamond Drive (hospital's on the left). Turn left (south) onto Diamond Drive, soon after which you will drive over a large bridge. Folks who have not been in the area for a few years will notice a few changes to the roadway at this point as Los Alamos National Laboratory thought it was necessary to drastically alter the natural flow of traffic to make room for a large security perimeter guard station; don't worry, you do not need a badge or ID to get through (yet). Follow the road left, then back right (this section is known to locals as "The Big Intestine"). Once through the guard station, continue up West Jemez for approximately 2 miles, passing the turn-off for the Pajarito Ski Resort (Camp May Road). About 0.5 miles past Camp May Road, look for a pull-out and parking lot on the right, which is at the trailhead for the Dungeon; turn in and park here. (GPS: Lon: -106.35262; Lat: 35.86575).

Walk North from the parking area, passing a large metal erosion control contraption and follow the trail for about 1/2 mile until you come onto the Main Wall (it's big and overhanging, it will be obvious).

  • Note: There is an alternative means of accessing the Dungeon, which bypasses the LANL "Security Perimeter" guard station. After turning left (south) onto Diamond Drive, immediately get in the right-hand lane and turn right at the traffic light onto West Road - this is before you cross the bridge. Follow West Road down into the canyon, passing the ice rink on your left. Continue up this road, back out of the canyon, passing the turn-off for the Pajarito Ski Resort (Camp May Road) on your right. Shortly after Camp May Road, you will merge with West Jemez Road, but will have bypassed all of the LANL "security" area. About 0.5 miles after merging with W. Jemez, look for a pull-out and parking lot on the right, which is at the trailhead for the Dungeon; turn in and park here.

(More thorough directions provided thanks to Jason Hundhausen)


Other Resources 

For resources check out the Jemez Rock guide by Marc Beverly

Rock & Ice, June / July 2000, pages 84-87 has info.. this was copied to an online guide at:
http://www.OnlineClimbing.Com/guide_display_site.asp?SiteID=>>>>>


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Dungeon:
(03) Trash Disco   5.10a/b     Sport, 35 feet   Trash Tower
Pleasure Cruise   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   The Fin Wall
Rampage   5.11a     Sport, 60 feet   Black Wall
(06) Weenies Go Like This (aka Garbageman)   5.11b     Sport, 35 feet   Trash Tower
(14) Moat Jump   5.12a     Sport   Main Wall
(11) Crimp Chimp   5.12a     Sport, 40 feet   45° Boulder
(10) Tendon Bendin' (aka Tendon Bender)   5.12b     Sport, 35 feet   45° Boulder
(08) Against Nature (aka Peter's Route)   5.12b     Sport, 80 feet   Main Wall
(03) Meltdown   5.12b     Sport, 30 feet   Main Wall
(07) Little Evil (aka Slope a Dope)   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   45° Boulder
(10) Gangland   5.12b     Sport, 65 feet   Main Wall
(15) Moat Pump   5.12c     Sport, 75 feet   Main Wall
(04) Beastmaster   5.12c/d     Sport, 45 feet   45° Boulder
(06) Siege Warfare   5.12c/d     Sport   Main Wall
(11) Loose Cannon   5.13a     Sport   Main Wall
(05) Evil Alchemist   5.13a     Sport   Main Wall
Browse More Classics in The Dungeon

Featured Route For The Dungeon
Chris E working his way out the undercling crack at the top of the route. Anchors are just above the wedge shaped jug.

(11) Loose Cannon 5.13a  NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Main Wall
Maybe the best line on the wall, marred only by the fact that the crux is particularly desperate, which is why there is a chain draw for bailing off of if in the middle if you can't do the crux. Starts right of Peter's route and works up and right to a few crimpy and technical moves right to deposit you underneath the chain draw. At least 2 solutions to the crux exist. One very powerful, one very crimpy and still powerful. Climb ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Photos of The Dungeon Slideshow Add Photo
Happiness for a kid: A 40 foot tall swing set. Nov. 1, 2008.

Happiness for a kid: A 40 foot tall swing set. Nov...


Comments on The Dungeon Add Comment
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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jun 1, 2007

Tony, I like the new introduction. I'm no geologist but I thought the Dungeon was rhyolite. I will admit it seems a lot different than soccoro, which I also thought was rhyolite. Obviously it doesn;t matter much. Any geologists been to the Dungeon?

By Tony B
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2007

Really strange...
If I recall correctly from the late 80's/early 90's there was an older book for the North Shore areas of Lake Superior (IE Tetagouche- Palisade Head and Shovel Point) made a big deal about how tht rock was so rare...
That it was Rhyolite and that it was found there and in Turkey (yes, the country). Can someone confirm that there was such a book in print and that it did say that? My memory is usually very accurate for that sort of thing, but 20 years is a long time for minutia.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jun 5, 2007

Tony S,

Let's not get into the habit of assuming the Falcon Guide is correct! ;) Surely, with highest per capita number of PHDs in the country in Los Alamos, somebody ought to be able to tell us what kind of rock it is...

...Tony B,

I know nothing of the book, but I'm sure there is rhyolite at Smith Rock in Oregon (the Smith rhyolite is the spitting image of Socorro rhyolite). Interestingly, Smith also has tuff and basalt. So it seems there is some cosmic geologic link between NM and OR, besides the common presence of the Monomaniac.

By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 6, 2007

Ha ha, very true, those things have screwed me at least once. A black canyon trip comes to mind..... Guess I "assumed" that the guidebook would be more accurate and researched than my probably incorrect non-geologist impression that it was basalt!

Come on Geologists!

By George Perkins
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 3, 2007

Although not terribly relevant at this point.. I looked some of this up this morning.
The rock at the Dungeon is rhyolite: Tschicoma Formation of the Polvadera Group (Pliocene age). The rock at Back Rocks is the same formation. The rock at 3 other Jemez areas (Cochiti Mesa, Las Conchas, Battleship Rock) is also rhyolite (but of different formations), so there's 4 different kinds of rhyolite that people climb on in the Jemez- and others that aren't developed for climbing (yet). Rhyolite refers to volcanic or shallow level rock with high silica content (actually compositionally similar to granite- it would have formed granite had it cooled really really really slowly under the ground instead of erupting).
The obvious textural differences between the rhyolite at these areas reflects the temperature and how quickly they cooled, how readily they "flowed", the water content, and more recent erosional/weathering processes (like amount of rain, frequency of freeze/thaw, which depends on aspect and elevation, etc., etc.).

Socorro Box I think is also rhyolite, but I haven't looked up the details on it. The reason it is much darker in color is probably because the area has seen much movement of hydrothermal fluids after the rock formed, which changes the chemistry by taking some elements and leaving others.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 4, 2007

Killer explanation George! Thanks. Its hard to believe Cochiti has basically the same rock as the Dungeon. Where do "Volcanic Tuff" and or "welded tuff" fit into the picture?

By George Perkins
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 4, 2007

Tuff describes the origin as having come from volcanic ash (all tuffs are volcanic), and rhyolite refers to the chemical composition. So a rock can be a 'rhyolite ashflow tuff' all at once.

For more geologic details of east Jemez rhyolites and related rocks, see: Singer and Kudo (1986)'s article in 'Contributions to Mineralogy and Petrology', v. 94, p. 374-386. Those guys call it 'andesite' at the Dungeon actually, which is sort of similar to rhyolite, but has a little less silica. I think I've also seen this formation called 'dacite' in some publication, which is what the geologists I work with here usually call it. I'm not really sure which of these is right.. it's really a distinction in chemistry that only geochemists would want to worry about.