Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>
After careful consideration and discussions with Access Fund representatives and members of the climbing community, posting Last Chance Canyon beta will now be allowed on Mountain Project. However, when climbing at Last Chance Canyon we must be considerate of the Forest Services’ current ban on bolting new routes, climbing, and trespassing within the Solstice and Hermit Caves. The concerns of the Forest Service include archeological resources and rare or endangered plant species in the area. Please, tread lightly, and approach the area with a sense of respect.
Access Fund representatives are currently working with the Forest Service in creating a Climbing Management Plan for the area. We can assist them in this process by acting responsibly as a user group. As a community of climbers, it is important that visiting and local climbers share the responsibility in conducting themselves in a way that reflects positively on our larger community. Please respect the requests and policies of the Forest Service in order to preserve our access to this area.
MP.com Admin-extrordinaire Tony Stout warming up o...
Description
Start up less than vertical, highly featured, beautiful limestone. Climb up through a mini-crack system (not crack climbing), through a small bulge (crux), past some ledges, and through more featured slab.
Location
Right side of the overhanging roof of the primary wall, climb the corner and finish up high.
Protection
Bolts, Chains
Crux
The cruxy bulge can give the strongest climbers fits, which suprises most. Watched a stout 5.12 gym rat get spit out like a sunflower seed shell, LOL. Anyhow, as with most things in climbing, it is all about your feet. Throwing up a high left foot, shifting your weight onto it, using the holds for balance not to pull up, then stand up and walk....I mean climb to the next bolt.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Feb 25, 2008 rating: 5.8
This route is one of the best 5.8's, if not the best, that I have climbed in New Mexico. Long (compared to most New Mexico routes), with flawless stone, it is not to be missed!
If we visit this wall, everyone usually does this route at least once. The best 8 in the canyon! LOL, with a total of three, that is saying alot.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Mar 11, 2008 rating: 5.8
Craig Childre wrote:
The best 8 in the canyon! LOL, with a total of three, that is saying alot.
I can't say much regarding it being the best in the canyon, but I thought it was certainly better than (02) Fossil Fuel, which was the only other 5.8 I did while I was there. I said one of the best of its grade in New Mexico, which really is not saying much either, I have not seen many great 5.8 sport routes in New Mexico (I'm comparing it with places in at my end of the woods, i.e: Datil, El Rito, Palomas, White Rock, etc.) Though, I have done better trad routes of the grade in the Sandias and at Tres Piedres.
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