Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>
After careful consideration and discussions with Access Fund representatives and members of the climbing community, posting Last Chance Canyon beta will now be allowed on Mountain Project. However, when climbing at Last Chance Canyon we must be considerate of the Forest Services’ current ban on bolting new routes, climbing, and trespassing within the Solstice and Hermit Caves. The concerns of the Forest Service include archeological resources and rare or endangered plant species in the area. Please, tread lightly, and approach the area with a sense of respect.
Access Fund representatives are currently working with the Forest Service in creating a Climbing Management Plan for the area. We can assist them in this process by acting responsibly as a user group. As a community of climbers, it is important that visiting and local climbers share the responsibility in conducting themselves in a way that reflects positively on our larger community. Please respect the requests and policies of the Forest Service in order to preserve our access to this area.
The right half of the Violince Wall. The lower bi...
Description
The Violince Wall, aka the Warmup Wall, features the best selection of moderate routes in the canyon. The black, grey and tan streaked limestone is of the highest quality, rivaling that of any cliff in the country. The wall faces Northeast, so receives some morning sun, making it a great cliff for warming up.
Routes here range from slightly slabby, to just past vertical, with the occasional roof or bulge. Grades range from 5.8 to 5.11+, with one 5.13a, Wild Deuces. Climbing is generally on thin pockets and edges. Good footwork and balance are essential, but the occasional bomber jug keeps things fun.
Getting There
Follow the main trail from the parking lot, down into the canyon. This trail follows the crest of a descending spur in a N-NW direction. After ~5 minutes, a good trail breaks off to the right. Follow this trail to the N-NE. After ~100yds, a short 2nd class down climb is required (this can be tricky in heavy snow conditions). The trail bends back to the left, to another downclimb. After this second downclimb, the trail heads back to the SE, eventually traversing along the cliff base. A few short steep cliffs are passed before reaching the first established routes, on a long clean, 60-foot vertical panel of black & blue limestone. The first bolted route encountered is Poker Face Joe, 5.11b. Continue another 50 feet along the cliff base to a nice flat area, complete with stone benches, at the top of a small rise.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Violince Wall:
Start up less than vertical, highly featured, beautiful limestone. Climb up through a mini-crack system (not crack climbing), through a small bulge (crux), past some ledges, and through more featured slab....[more]Browse More Classics in NM
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Jan 30, 2008
The topo I have, which was reportedly drawn by Gogas, refers to it in 3 spots as the "Violince Wall". Nowhere does it use the term "Violin".
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Jan 31, 2008
Hmmmm, I changed it back to Violince Wall...
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Jan 31, 2008
I assumed the spelling was a typo, and they meant "violence". However, from Wikipedia:
"Violince is the debut album by rock/pop band Oppera. The band is fronted by pop singer Martika. The album combines the sound of goth music with pop/rock. It was released on an independent label and made available primarily at online music retailers."
From Wikipedia: "Violince is the debut album by rock/pop band Oppera. The band is fronted by pop singer Martika. The album combines the sound of goth music with pop/rock. It was released on an independent label and made available primarily at online music retailers." Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jan 31, 2008
So now we have three possibilities: Violins, Violince, and Violence.
Only route that I actually have heard a name for is Fiddler on the Roof. That 11a roof crack in the middle of the wall. Drew and Gillet both referred to this as Violin Wall. The other longtime locals never corrected any of us. Oh well.
Considering things, seems that correcting us over nuances of the name was not all that likely. It has probably been Violince all the while and I've been mistaken.
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