Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>
After careful consideration and discussions with Access Fund representatives and members of the climbing community, posting Last Chance Canyon beta will now be allowed on Mountain Project. However, when climbing at Last Chance Canyon we must be considerate of the Forest Services’ current ban on bolting new routes, climbing, and trespassing within the Solstice and Hermit Caves. The concerns of the Forest Service include archeological resources and rare or endangered plant species in the area. Please, tread lightly, and approach the area with a sense of respect.
Access Fund representatives are currently working with the Forest Service in creating a Climbing Management Plan for the area. We can assist them in this process by acting responsibly as a user group. As a community of climbers, it is important that visiting and local climbers share the responsibility in conducting themselves in a way that reflects positively on our larger community. Please respect the requests and policies of the Forest Service in order to preserve our access to this area.
Overview of Tornado Alley. Perspective is from ne...
Description
Tornado Alley is an excellent crag with a large variety of difficulties and styles. The wall offers a number of great lines in the 12+ and above range on steep swells, as well as a few technical slabs, and even one of the canyon's few crack routes.
The wall faces East, so receives morning sun and evening shade. The crag is in the relatively secluded upper half of the canyon, so this can be a good place to go to avoid crowds.
Getting There
If you are in the canyon, head up canyon past the Solstice Cave, then over undulating terrain as the canyon bends to the south. After several hundred yards the cliff will appear on the right (west) wall of the canyon. Some easy bushwhacking may be required to reach the cliff base.
From the parking lot, head down the main approach trail in a NNW-erly direction. After 5 minutes, the Violence Wall approach spur splits off to the right. COntinue another few minutes, and another spur trail branches off to the left (west). Follow this spur towards the sunporch. Near the canyon bottom, several short, easy downclimbs are required. Once in the canyon bottom, cross the canyon and follow your nose to the wall.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tornado Alley:
This is a four star endurance fest, while there are really no hard moves, the pump builds for the wild finish.Start up easy steep ground to even steeper ground. Rest whenever possible (when your not pulling a roof) and stay psyched for the crux finish, for me it was a wild dyno for what I hoped was a good hold next to the anchors. While the individual move was probably no harder than V1, your incredibly pumped at this point....[more]Browse More Classics in NM
Any significant precipitation will cause all the routes between Flying Cows and Swept Away to be flooded (at least the landing). Mud usually persists for awhile, and Swept Away is always the last route on the wall to dry out. At least it does it before Santa Fe.
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