Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>
After careful consideration and discussions with Access Fund representatives and members of the climbing community, posting Last Chance Canyon beta will now be allowed on Mountain Project. However, when climbing at Last Chance Canyon we must be considerate of the Forest Services’ current ban on bolting new routes, climbing, and trespassing within the Solstice and Hermit Caves. The concerns of the Forest Service include archeological resources and rare or endangered plant species in the area. Please, tread lightly, and approach the area with a sense of respect.
Access Fund representatives are currently working with the Forest Service in creating a Climbing Management Plan for the area. We can assist them in this process by acting responsibly as a user group. As a community of climbers, it is important that visiting and local climbers share the responsibility in conducting themselves in a way that reflects positively on our larger community. Please respect the requests and policies of the Forest Service in order to preserve our access to this area.
The excellent unknown route on the far right end o...
Description
One of the best hard routes at LCC, and perhaps one of the best of its grade in New Mexico, featuring 5-star limestone, thought-provoking moves, a significant pump-factor and powerful cranks that don't let up till you clip the chains.
Begin 20 feet left of the Hermit's Cave. Fortunately this route's position avoids the culturally sensitive area to the right. Slopey pockets head up and right for two bolts, to a difficult sequence moving past the third bolt and a decent shake on interesting holds. A few more large pockets lead to the 4th bolt and a long reach to a good 1/2 inch edge just below the crux bulge, that offers a mediocre rest.
Sequential and powerful cranks on surprisingly thin holds leads to a pair of two-finger pockets just over the lip. Make two dynamic stabs to a pair of sloping dishes, bring up a foot, rock over and crank for the excellent mail slot. From here you can clip bolts 6 & 7. Rest as best you can here (taller folks may find this difficult) as one more desparete move to a good crimp guards the chains.
Location
The first bolted route left of the Hermit's Cave. This is the only bolted route in the vicinity. About 100yds left (E) of the Violince Wall.
Name update: This route is actually Bubbles. Was informed as such along with a missing name on Fossil Wall. I mistakenly thought it was down at Beer wall. Sorry for the error.
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