Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>
After careful consideration and discussions with Access Fund representatives and members of the climbing community, posting Last Chance Canyon beta will now be allowed on Mountain Project. However, when climbing at Last Chance Canyon we must be considerate of the Forest Services’ current ban on bolting new routes, climbing, and trespassing within the Solstice and Hermit Caves. The concerns of the Forest Service include archeological resources and rare or endangered plant species in the area. Please, tread lightly, and approach the area with a sense of respect.
Access Fund representatives are currently working with the Forest Service in creating a Climbing Management Plan for the area. We can assist them in this process by acting responsibly as a user group. As a community of climbers, it is important that visiting and local climbers share the responsibility in conducting themselves in a way that reflects positively on our larger community. Please respect the requests and policies of the Forest Service in order to preserve our access to this area.
Black Plague is one of the best 5.13s in Southern New Mexico. The line ascends a stunningly beautiful pair of black streaks, up a gentle overhang with technical, powerful moves. The route is notorious for the double mono crux at the second bolt, where strong fingers are helpful, but impeccable movement can reduce the tweak factor significantly. Above the monos the holds stay small, but less tweaky. The route snakes right, left, and back right between the black streaks, before surmounting the final tufa roof. On the headwall a few slabby moves will keep your attention as you head to the chains.
Location
Ascends the beautiful black streaks near the left end of the Mad Cow Wall.
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