Mad Cow Wall

Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>> After careful consideration and discussions with Access Fund representatives and members of the climbing community, posting Last Chance Canyon beta will now be allowed on Mountain Project. However, when climbing at Last Chance Canyon we must be considerate of the Forest Services’ current ban on bolting new routes, climbing, and trespassing within the Solstice and Hermit Caves. The concerns of the Forest Service include archeological resources and rare or endangered plant species in the area. Please, tread lightly, and approach the area with a sense of respect. Access Fund representatives are currently working with the Forest Service in creating a Climbing Management Plan for the area. We can assist them in this process by acting responsibly as a user group. As a community of climbers, it is important that visiting and local climbers share the responsibility in conducting themselves in a way that reflects positively on our larger community. Please respect the requests and policies of the Forest Service in order to preserve our access to this area. Thank You, Tony New Mexico Mountain Project Admin. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Overview of (most of) the Mad Cow Wall.

Description 

The Mad Cow Wall is arguably the best cliff at LCC, and certainly the best chunk of limestone in New Mexico. The wall stretches for several hundred yards, featuring loads of stellar lines. Routes range in steepness from just past vertical, up to "very steep", and tend to be longer than the routes at other LCC cliffs. Visiting hardmen will want to take a stab at the stunning double black streak of "Black Plague". However, this cliff really shines in the lower 5.12 grades.

This wall faces Northeast. However, unlike the Violence Wall, Mad Cow receives virtually no sun in the winter. It is possible to climb here in the dead of winter (on the right day), but it may be pretty chilly.

Getting There 

From the Violence Wall, continue SE along the cliff base past a large cave (I assume this is the "Hermit Cave", which is off-limits to climbing) with several interesting artifacts. The first few routes ascend super steep orange tiers. To get oriented, find the right-leaning, overhanging bolted dihedral of "The West Wasn't Won on A Salad".

Routes 

Routes from the Entrance to Hueco Cave. Climbers right to left. (Thanks DTP!)

(01) Bubbles (5.13b) - Beautiful Limestone, Last 3 draws are Fixed
(02) Bandit (5.12c/13a) - Powerful Start through roof to easier finish.
(03) John Waynes Knee (5.12d/13a) - Thin vertical start to wild dynos and a tricky finish. Fixed Draws
(04) Rawhide (5.12c) - Classic route on big holds and steep rock. Fixed Draws
(05) Chuckwagon (5.12c) - Big holds except for the hard boulder problem middle. Fixed Draws
(06) West Wasn't Won on Salad (5.12a) - Rightwards traversing up an overhanging arete with a wild finish. Fixed Draws
(07) Peacemaker (5.12d) - Rumored to have broken
(08) Unknown (5.12b)
(09) Rattlesnake (5.11b) - Hard start to easier finish
(10) Rabid Dale (5.12b) - Bouldery Start to a rest to hard thin finish
(11) Unknown (5.12b)
(12) Black Plague (5.13b) - Hard moves up a beautiful section of stone.
(13) Big Daddy (5.12d) - 4 Star climbing up a 30° overhang. Thin climbing culminates in a thin crimp crux.
(14) Rabid Dave (5.12b) - Great route on stellar rock.
(15) Die Hardral (5.12a) - Climbs up the diehedral on closely spaced bolts.
(16) Shakka (5.11c) - Easier climbing on thin crimps
(17) Cutter (5.11c) - Great climbing on crimps, the warmup??
(18) Mad Cow (5.12b) - More great climbing with long pulls on thin crimps
(19) Anthrax Letters (5.12d) - Hard Start to easier climbing?
(20) Ebola (5.13a) - Harder Start to easier climbing?

The Classics

Featured Route For Mad Cow Wall

(12) Black Plague 5.13b  NM : Last Chance Canyon : Mad Cow Wall

Black Plague is one of the best 5.13s in Southern New Mexico. The line ascends a stunningly beautiful pair of black streaks, up a gentle overhang with technical, powerful moves. The route is notorious for the double mono crux at the second bolt, where strong fingers are helpful, but impeccable movement can reduce the tweak factor significantly. Above the monos the holds stay small, but less tweaky. The route snakes right, left, and back right...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Mad Cow Wall Slideshow

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The right end of the Mad Cow Wall. Routes 1 & 2 a...	The left end of the Mad Cow Wall. The right edge ...	Drew Cumming sending Peacemaker 12d