Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>
After careful consideration and discussions with Access Fund representatives and members of the climbing community, posting Last Chance Canyon beta will now be allowed on Mountain Project. However, when climbing at Last Chance Canyon we must be considerate of the Forest Services’ current ban on bolting new routes, climbing, and trespassing within the Solstice and Hermit Caves. The concerns of the Forest Service include archeological resources and rare or endangered plant species in the area. Please, tread lightly, and approach the area with a sense of respect.
Access Fund representatives are currently working with the Forest Service in creating a Climbing Management Plan for the area. We can assist them in this process by acting responsibly as a user group. As a community of climbers, it is important that visiting and local climbers share the responsibility in conducting themselves in a way that reflects positively on our larger community. Please respect the requests and policies of the Forest Service in order to preserve our access to this area.
Start on a chossy, plant ridden ramp. Hike to where the ramp meets with the wall and clip the first bolt. The crux comes right after the first bolt where you pull on some suspect looking rock and onto a fine ledge. From the ledge, you can clip the second bolt, the first two bolts are shared between (01) Unknown Fossil (1) and (02) Fossil Fuel.
From the second bolt, bust left. The best part of the climb is from here to the anchors! Sustained movement through a crack system takes you over an exciting roof crux. Pull the roof and clip the chains.
Location
Leftmost route on the wall.
Protection
Bolts, chain anchors
Lowering and Rapping Notes
The anchor is such that lowering off runs the rope over a sharp edge. Rapping off may minimize wear on your rope.
For reference V1 equates to 5.11-, so if a route is 5.6 up to a V1 boulder problem (be it 1 move or 10 moves) then more 5.6, the route would be 5.11-. If the sections before and/or after are closer to the grade of the boulder problem, say 5.10 or so then the route would be harder to account for fatigue.
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