Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>
After careful consideration and discussions with Access Fund representatives and members of the climbing community, posting Last Chance Canyon beta will now be allowed on Mountain Project. However, when climbing at Last Chance Canyon we must be considerate of the Forest Services’ current ban on bolting new routes, climbing, and trespassing within the Solstice and Hermit Caves. The concerns of the Forest Service include archeological resources and rare or endangered plant species in the area. Please, tread lightly, and approach the area with a sense of respect.
Access Fund representatives are currently working with the Forest Service in creating a Climbing Management Plan for the area. We can assist them in this process by acting responsibly as a user group. As a community of climbers, it is important that visiting and local climbers share the responsibility in conducting themselves in a way that reflects positively on our larger community. Please respect the requests and policies of the Forest Service in order to preserve our access to this area.
After clearing the hiking ramp, clip a bolt that just might save you from rolling all the way down to the dirt should you slip on the stacked choss during the next 8 feet of climbing. Tread lightly up to the next bolt. If you find the clipping hold feels like a sloper, just keep moving right, there's a jug. Just above the second bolt is a balancy, crimpy move that might test your headgame. Great movement all the way up this line. One can Move left or right, depending on your place along the route to find easier climbing. The best line sticks to the face on the more direct line.
This route snapped a Midland local's ankle one Sunday in 2006 when he blew the clip at the third bolt. Earned him a trip out hopping on one leg aided by two climbers at his sides.