East Coast Dreams 

FA:  Bob D'Antonio, Mike McGill, Bob Perna Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.11b/c [details] Length:  1 pitch, 70 feet Views: 37 page views Submitted By: George Perkins on Jul 16, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

East Coast Dreams would be a good climb if it weren't for a screwed-up start and some sketchy flakes on an easier section midway up.

Start up unprotected slab, or go up left trending easy bushy gully.

Clip the first bolt, make a long reach to a positive pocket, and gun it through the steep section past 2 more bolts. Traverse right, using some scary-looking flakes, where you'll join the easier upper section of the center bolted line (Sanctuarium, 5.12b/c). Make a funky mantle, step left and crank on up good huecos to the chains.

The photo in Jemez Rock is a little bit off in how it depicts the upper section, but you shouldn't get lost.

Location 

East Coast Dreams is the westernmost bolt line on the Dream Tower proper. This formation is just right of, or upstream from, The Sponge, just right of where the creek hits the north-side cliff (cross the stream on a log).

Protection 

5 or 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. I only clipped 5, but the guidebook lists 6, so maybe I missed one.