Of the two bolted routes in the Love Shack, this is the one on the left. Starts nearly horizontal, then continues steep/ pumpy through 3 bolts of sustained climbing. Interesting mix of holds (pinches, slopers, pockets), excellent rock. The last few moves ease off in difficulty, but the pump factor keeps things interesting to the chains.
Great Route! Fun short and powerful. 4 stars just for the cool unique holds, the closest thing to tufas I have found in NM. Usually graded 12d, but seems a bit easier.
Maybe the high humidity just made it feel like 12c, haha.
The anchors to the right route (Deathgrip) still looked pretty funky when I was on it Saturday. Short two link chains held in place by washers and a nut, on what looked to be smaller than 3/8" stud bolts. Many thanks if the anchors were upgraded yesterday.
I replaced them on Sunday. I did not have the right length of camouflage chain with me so at some point in the next few weeks I will replace the regular chain I left. There is now a new bolt above the old right bolt and equalized chains for easier rope pulling. The new anchor is consequently further right and does not put your rope in the stream when it drops. Funny how this climb went for years with no action and now everyone is on it.
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