BETA PHOTO: Tasty Freeze (5.9), Chilly Willy Wall, Las Conchas...
Description
Start up by stemming between the wall and the boulder pile, or by climbing the loose-ish flakes on the face, clipping a bolt along the way. Or just scramble up the boulder pile (you might miss the first bolt if you do that, though). Probably best to sling the chockstone at the top of the pile, too. After clipping the second bolt, find some frictiony feet as high as you can in the shallow dish and reach or jump (?) to obtain a bomber jug. Pull through by semi-liebacking the jug to a solid stance to place some hand-sized pro, then angle up to the right and continue fun liebacking off the the left side of the semi-detached flake, which continues to offer great hand-sized gear placements. The liebacks start to thin out, so find the third bolt in the face to the left, which protects an airy step-over across the face into the right-facing arm/fist crack behind the fat flake farther to the left. From here, the crack leads up and left, continuing to offer great pro. Top out by following this crack, or apparently one can continue straight up through scoops (a little run-out, maybe safer to try that on toprope). Both options reach a big ledge with the top anchor at eye level on the face behind (allowing for a decent toprope setup).
Previously described by Jett and Samet (1991:84), Beverly (2006:58), and Jackson (2006:211). Jett and Samet gave this route an "R-" annotation, and the other two guides call it "R", although I'm not sure why; maybe if you choose the right finish through the scoops?
Location
Begin in a little alley just left of the boulder pile, just to the right of a black streak on the wall.
Protection
Three bolts (two fairly low on the route). Trad rack with mostly larger gear (save #3 and #4 Camalots for the upper left exit crack). (although I have heard of someone leading this on only the bolts!! scary-bold, or foolish?)
Two-bolt anchor at the top (actually one closed cold shut and a bolt with a chain). Either rappel or walk off (actually a class 3 scramble-off). Once you know where the anchors are you could set this as a toprope if you walk up the backside.
See also George's description of the 'Unnamed "5.10+"' route on the Chilly Willy Wall. Maybe someone can chime in with the real scoop?
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM May 13, 2008 rating: 5.9
After some discussion with Chris, Jason, and others.. we figure that Tasty Freeze probably follows the line marked as Unknown 5.10+ in 'Jemez Rock', rather than the line where it is marked to the right, in the same book. If someone knows for sure, let us know..
Thanks, Jason Halladay, for replacing some of the bolt hangers on this climb.
By Bryan T From: Albuquerque, New Mexico Aug 9, 2009
I was able to run a #2 camalot once you get on-top of the first jug. Then once at the first lieback I plugged in a #4 friend. They were pretty close, but you need to get something in once you get up the first jug before you do the lieback. You can proly get a larger nut or medium hex in leu of the number 2. Get the 3rd bolt followed by either a #4 friend or a #4 camalot at the top left on your way out. I only had a #3 camalot at that point and had to place it a little lower than i would have liked. Quick draws will work fine for rope drag but some 60cm slings will work better if you have them.
Wouldn't hurt to have a couple slings for the anchors too as the rope drag, once top-roped, can be pretty bad.
Also, on the start, once you are on top of the boulder pile, there is a horribly hollow sounding flake on the right that you can use for balance. Have your right foot on top of the highest boulder and use the flake for balance as you stem out with your left and get the bomber first hold. Like stated in the description, you could jump for it; It's solid with room for two hands, and grippy. The second bolt will protect this move.
Quality route. Good holds. Fun!
Lead this again a few weeks later. Used a #1 Camalot lower and the #3 Camalot just past that, then a #4 Friend at the top. You have several options for .75-2 Camalots lower, to #3-4 just above that, and placements for #3-maybe #5 at the top.
Not sure what the R rating is. Possibly if done without pro or directly up the face without the boulder, but if done without the bolder pile it would proly be beyond 5.9
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