BETA PHOTO: Turkey Sandwich (5.8), Chilly Willy Wall, Las Conc...
Description
Described in Jackson's guide book as "seldom climbed", and there's probably a good reason for that. From the top of the boulder pile, delicately climb the face and/or arete to the roof. A fist- to arm-bar sized crack leads around the right side of the roof. Follow more secure, lower-angled fist and hand cracks to the top anchors, just past an easy bulge.
Previously described by Jett and Samet (1991:84 -- they call it 5.8), Beverly (2006:58 -- called it 5.8-), and Jackson (2006:211 -- called it 5.8). None of these guides had previously presented a route topo, though.
Location
This is the far right-most (southerly) route on Chilly Willy Wall. Starts on the right side of the boulder pile, about 30 feet right of the Tasty Freeze bolts.
Protection
Trad rack to #4 Camalot (#4 is pretty essential), also including a thin-finger sized cam.
Two-bolt anchor at the top (actually one closed cold shut and one bolt with a chain). One can either rappel or walk off (a class 3 scramble-off, actually). Once you know the anchor, this can be set as a top rope by walking up the backside.
Although it's not indicated as such in any of the books, I added an R rating, due to what I felt was the sketchy-ness of the face just off the top of the boulder pile. One has to make a pretty unprotected move to gain a stance on the face where you can reach a thin-finger cam placement in a pod under a semi-detached flake, which appears pretty solid (but I swear, the flake made a creaking noise as I climbed past the cam!). That's basically all the meaningful pro you get until you reach the roof crack, so there's a possibility of landing on the boulder pile, or the ground below, if you peel off the face (so maybe even ~X rated?).
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