Giant Boulder Left (Unnamed 5.8) 

FA:  ? Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.8 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 30 feet Views: 213 page views Submitted By: Chris Wenker on May 12, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Giant Boulder Left (Unnamed 5.8), Chilly Willy Wal...

Description 

Sort of a V0- highball boulder problem with bolts (and an anchor from which to abseil). The first bolt can be reached from the ground, which helps protect against a ground fall during the low cruxy moves before reaching the stability of the first undercling. Relatively pedestrian underclings and sidepulls then carry you to the top.

This route is cursorily described by Jackson (2006) and Beverly (2006).

Location 

This climb is on the left (north) side of the giant boulder that leans against the front of the Chilly Willy Wall.

Protection 

Three bolts. The first bolt is appreciated, but the top two bolts are located right next to detached flakes that would allow gear placements -- go figure.
A two-bolt top anchor is shared with the other climbs on this boulder. Long slings (as compared to quickdraws) are useful at the anchor.

Photos of Giant Boulder Left (Unnamed 5.8) Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Yellow is bolted route and about a 5.8. The Red is...