Right side of boulder. Nothing too crazy, a nice w...
Description
Unusually slabby for Las Conchas. An awkward move is found just past the first bolt (crux), sneak by this by finding small feet and sidepulls, then higher up small but more positive pockets allow one to summit the giant boulder. Slippery when wet.
Location
This climb is on the right side of the giant boulder in front of Chilly Willy Wall. (the slab just left of the steep overhanging boulder problem).
You can lower off the boulder in a few different directions. Back the way you came works, but is not necessarily best.
Protection
3 bolts to the common 2-bolt anchor atop the giant boulder. Long slings (as compared to quickdraws) are useful at this anchor.
By Bryan T From: Albuquerque, New Mexico Aug 7, 2009 rating: 5.8
We like to start here due to the shade and relative quietness. Lead the right side of the rock and set up a webbing anchor at the top. Typically we use a piece of 20' x 1" webbing equalized to a locker. The anchors are in somewhat of a dish and you will have massive rope drag (to the point of not being able to belay) if you don't extend the anchor far enough. Anchors on top are screw links. After everyone gets a run or two in, we flip the anchor to the north face (left side) and run a V0 problem to the right of the actual route.
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