On Forest on a fine November day. Just about to ge...
Description
A steep, featured gear-protected crack system on the far right side of Gateway Rock. Start on easier face climbing perhaps clipping the first bolt on (06) Road Rage and then get to a crack where a .5 camalot protects steep moves. Continue up on nicely featured face and crack climbing as the crack gets wider (fist size) and steeper.
Location
Far right side of Gateway Rock just right of Road Rage.
Listed as route #7 on route topo photo for Las Conchas Gateway Rock.
Protection
BD .4 to #3. Doubles in the .75, 1 and 2. Maybe some medium nuts too. You can move left to the anchors on (06) Road Rage at the top without much issue.
This note is good for historical use but the rock isn't good and I have been told that rock has broken during a fall.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Jun 23, 2008 rating: 5.10d PG13
This climb is a fun toprope from the Road Rage anchors. If you think you might fall near the top, a directional piece may be a good idea, but is not highly necessary, and at this point you're through the crux. As far as the moves on the route, I think this climb is easier than Road Rage, but then there's worrying about whether the rock is solid.
I added this route to MP so I can't give an "opinion rating" but having led it today I'd call it 5.10d R. The R is on account of the poor rock for pro. The placements were plentiful but I had a hard time mentally committing to the thought that the rock in the cracks would hold up if I fell. I ended traversing left a couple of times to clip bolts on (06) Road Rage with double-length runners as a backup if the pro failed. Otherwise, it's a fun line with entertaining climbing.
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