Powerful start to some technical pocket pulling. After this you get a good rest to an endurance finish. Yes the mono's can be avoided at the bottom, and don't grab the chains at the finish.
The new guidebook uses a three star system. If I was using a four star system it would have four stars. I think this climb is one of the most aesthetic sport routes in AZ or NM.
Aesthetically speaking, this route is excellent. I think it would get a perfect rating on any scale, if it did not back off after the monos and up the flake before hitting the endurance crux. It stands as one of my favorite onsights. I did American Psycho OS the same day, and was nowhere near as psyched. The only thing to top Shipwrecked, is Goliath...for a similar grade.
Gotta agree with Mono. The respite you get after the low technical crux offers little in the way of meaningful recovery, especially given the pumpiness of the top section. Charging through the mid-section efficiently and enjoying its airy bolt spacing added to the experience for me rather than detracting. I have yet to hear somebody complain that they had too much energy left when they clipped the anchors after the final bulge.
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