Easy start to an unexpected hard move where the holds aren't as good as they look. To a great rest. At this point follow the right line of bolts up the steep face on mostly good holds. Watch out as there are a few heavily chalked sucker holds that lead to dead ends. Rest at the ledge up top, then finish to the anchors. Can also be done using the start for Once Upon A Time and traversing left, this makes it a bit harder, probably hard 11b, easy 11c.
Location
Between Tinkerbell's Nightmare and Once Upon A Time
4 star route if it were any where else in NM but the tower. It is definitly easier to skip the second to last bolt then to lean way left to clip it. Just make two extra moves on jugs and your standing on the ledge. Even if you fell it would be better than taking a clipping fall here which is quite possible if your pumped.
DisturbingThePeace, thanks for the comment. I agree with your beta, I moved up to the nice holds as you suggested and clipped down which was not that bad.
I agree on the moving past the bolt to the ledge. I was pumped and in an attempt to put the draw on I bashed my hand on the rock and dropped the draw. I had a new draw on and clipped by the time everyone below was done watching my draw bounce.... New racking 'biners!!!!!
RSS Feed
Slideshow
