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Sleeping Beauty Wall
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(03) Sleeping Beauty 

5.11c

   

FA: Bertrand Gramont and Don Goodhew 10/87
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 65 feet
Season: Spring and Fall
Views: 468 page views

Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Feb 15, 2006


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Nate getting the onsight of Sleeping Beauty. Augus...


Description 

Sleeping Beauty is the steep, pocketed route just left of the obvious black streak in the Sleeping Beauty area. Scramble up the right side of the low angle ramp on unprotected but easy terrain to the first bolt. Clip it and then head up and slightly right up the overhanging face on pockets. Choosing the right pockets out of the multitude of chalked holds will be the deciding factor on whether you get the red point or not.


Protection 

5 bolts to 2-bolt anchor/rap



Photos of (03) Sleeping Beauty Slideshow Add Photo
Amy on "Sleeping Beauty."

Amy on "Sleeping Beauty."

Linda W. nearing the top

Linda W. nearing the top


Comments on (03) Sleeping Beauty Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 16, 2006
rating: 5.11c

Great climbing up a smooth bulge festooned with pockets...some are good and some are not! Choosing the right pockets or having the endurance to hang out and search is the key to this climb.

By jbaker
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 23, 2006

It's a sweet little climb, but just too short for 3 stars.

By WSnyder
Mar 27, 2006
rating: 5.11b/c

Some of my friends and I have a saying for climbing at The Tower "Skip the crap, go big!". Meaning, make bigger moves from good holds to the next good holds and skipping the not so good. This certainly applies to this route and is a good rule of thumb to keep in mind for the whole area.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.11c

Great route with sustained and technical pocket pulling and toe punching up a beautiful panel of stone. It reminds me of Cochiti for some reason - even if the climb is generally steeper and the pockets are better...Not very long but good fun anyways.