Mountain Project: Climbing Enchanted Tower

This area, aka the Training Wall, or Babies Wall, is the place to go for short, hard, bouldery routes. There are also a handful of moderates on either side of the super steep wall. There's a gully on the right (E) side of the wall offering 3 longish moderates, all good warmups. The route on the left side of this gully is one of the only 5.10s at the Tower that receives early morning sun, so makes for an excellent Warmup.

Location

This wall is right (E) of the tower itself. To approach, park below the tower, and head up and right along the NM CRAG-constructed trail. Just above the first switchback the trail splits. Head right. Continue up and rightwards for 100 feet to the wall. The hard routes are all on the super steep wall at trail's end. The moderates can be found on either side of the steep wall.

Routes:

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Frog Prince:

(13) Unknown FP 2 5.10b Sport

(04) Freddie Prince Jr 5.10b Sport

(02) Blind Man's Bluff 5.11b Sport, 40 feet

(05) The Raven 5.11d Sport

(07) Frog Prince (AKA Babies) 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet

(08) Through the Looking Glass 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet

(09) White Queen 5.13b Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet

(07.5) Red Queen 5.13b Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet

Featured Route For Frog Prince

(08) Through the Looking Glass 5.12c NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince

This high-quality power route is one of the best of its grade at the Tower, perhaps second only to Shipwrecked. This route shoots straight up the center of the Frog Prince wall, beginning atop a boulder on the ledge. A couple bolts of relatively easy, sequential pockets lead to a powerful crux two-finger crank just below the lip....[more] Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on Frog Prince

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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 10, 2006

The money section of this wall has all sorts of silly link-ups, complete with unnecessary bolts in 'no-mands land' intended to protect the three foot runouts between adjacent routes for the one guy who found it necessary to traverse horizontally along the wall. If you're dying to tick a slightly easier variation to 'White Queen' for your 8a.nu scorecard, the new pamphlet guide describes all of the various contrivances.

On the other hand, if you want to climb the quality independent lines, thre are essentially four of them. From L to R, they are:
1. Gollum, 11d
2. Frog Prince (aka Babies), 12a
3. Through the Looking Glass, 12c
4. White Queen, 13b (first bolt on right wall of dihedral)

This does not describe which routes were put in first, but as the cliff stands now, these are the obvious lines.

Other routes you may have heard of such as White Knight, Red Queen, Dairy Queen, Drag Queen are all linkups of the four routes listed above, that finish either at the anchors of White Queen or Through the Looking Glass. The theme on this wall is, climb some small pockets with no rest to get pumped, then do a hard boulder problem just below the anchor. So no matter which holds you use to get pumped, you're still limited to only two boulder problems to crux out on.

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Frog Prince

Description

Location

Routes:

The Classics