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Routes in Grotto Left (East Side)
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Affirmative Action S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bedeviled S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bergers Bakeshop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Better Late than Never S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Book of Souls, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bush in a Blender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chopping Block S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Diabolical S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Good S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Loose Bottom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Muscle Crow S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Paradise City S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Under Powered S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Waiting to Procrastinate S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Welcome to the Jungle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Billy Butler |
| Page Views: | 2,795 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Apr 6, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
This route is Good. Begin 8 feet right of Evil. This route is also route #4 in the overview photo.
The route climbs on excellent quality rock on large edges that all slope down, making the route feel insecure and pumpy. If these edges were flat or incut the route would be 5.8. A few tricky moves over small roofs lead to a somewhat contrived left-wards traverse to the last bolt (which is shared with Evil). Finish atop the column at a 2-bolt chain anchor.
These routes stay shady until ~3pm (DST).
The route climbs on excellent quality rock on large edges that all slope down, making the route feel insecure and pumpy. If these edges were flat or incut the route would be 5.8. A few tricky moves over small roofs lead to a somewhat contrived left-wards traverse to the last bolt (which is shared with Evil). Finish atop the column at a 2-bolt chain anchor.
These routes stay shady until ~3pm (DST).
Location
As of 2016, This is the 6th bolted line from the left and is fully independent from Evil. Route #4 in ![]()
Picture of lower grotto routes Courtesy of Rick Bradshaw, author of online guide: losalamos.com/diablo/defaul…. between Evil and Bush in a Blender.
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