Original Face Route
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.3 from 89 votes
Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | "others..." before mid-90s |
Page Views: | 4,224 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | George Perkins on Oct 23, 2007 · Updates |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
This low-angle face is one of the easiest routes in Diablo Canyon. It's mostly 5.6 most of the way up, with a few thin 5.7/5.8 moves in the last 20'. The crux is just after the last bolt.
Formerly a mixed bolts/gear route, this good beginner route recently had more bolts added so that it is fully bolt-protected (Not to say anything about bolt ethics, but if you're going to have a "traditude" about a 5.8 on the Winter Wall, you should probably stop and consider how ridiculous you are).
Formerly a mixed bolts/gear route, this good beginner route recently had more bolts added so that it is fully bolt-protected (Not to say anything about bolt ethics, but if you're going to have a "traditude" about a 5.8 on the Winter Wall, you should probably stop and consider how ridiculous you are).
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