Chaos Crag is the large formation sitting downhill and south of Torreon and Mexican Breakfast it lies just above ENE of the Frog formation. Chaos has a large west face that is approx, 500 ft wide and 500 ft tall. The WSW is sunny and the route Edge of Chaos lies on the far left side of the formation on a more WNW aspect. The rock is quite good in general and you're almost guaranteed solitude on this formation. Fun adventure climbing!
Getting There
Hike down the La Luz trail from the Crest parking area. I used the old La Luz/Direct route to get down to the forested slope that leads directly to the southern end of the Chaos formation. There is a bit of a climbers trail as you can use the same approach as for Mexican Breakfast if you're coming in from the La Luz Trail. Instead of hiking uphill and east to Mexican Breakfast, hike to the NW and up through a little col between Chaos and a small spire that sits to its south. The approach is about 1:10.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chaos Crag:
Edge of Chaos 5.11a Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II
Dave Hammack and I did the face around 1960-61. The rock was excellent and the climbing was mid 5, maybe 5.6 or 5.7. We were not very imaginative in naming pinnacles. We certainly were not of the ability to do Karl Kiser's route
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Chaos Crag