This route climbs the true water stains on the west face of the Thumb. The rock is perfect from eons of water polishing.
P1: Start on ledges at the base of the major water stains on the Thumb's West face. Climb up and slightly right to an overlap, climb directly over it and on to face climbing above past two bolts. Belay at a single bolt (6 Ft right of the old anchor, with poor bolts) and good 1/2 inch gear. 110ft.
P2: Climb straight up a dark corner on to lighter colored face, easy climbing leads directly to a shallow right facing corner, climb up and left on into the water stains, clip a bolt and pull the crux by moving up and right (5.10a) continue up and slightly left trending past another bolt to another belay ledge with a bolt and small gear for the belay. 165ft
P3: Step up and left off the belay and clip a bolt, face climb into a corner, climb up the corner and exit right to a shallow right facing corner/offset. Climb straight up through the water stains on excellent face climbing to a good belay alcove. 150ft
P4: Climb up to the right in a left facing corner. From the top of the corner diagonal hard right to a short wall baring the way. Step out around the corner to the right of the wall and continue on good quality face and slab climbing still diagonal trending right. Head for a large tree and belay when the rope runs out. 195ft.
50 feet of 3rd to 4th class will get you to the top of the Thumb.
Location
The route is on the west face of the Thumb. The start is found by starting directly under the large water stains in the middle of the west face. From the top continue along the ridge heading south for 150ft. Turn right and down climb to a tree. Follow a nice ledge system down just below the S ridge of the Thumb. Continue scrambling down the S ridge to the col at the S end of the formation. Once you cut down on to the N side of the col walk hard right staying above the talus below. Keeping contouring around until above forested slopes skiers right of the boulder field. Once in the trees there is a rough climbers trail that will quickly bring you back to the La Luz trail 500 Ft below.
Protection
The pro is good but generally thin. Bring extra .3-.5 inch cams and a standard Sandia rack to 2.5 inches. P1 two bolts and one at the belay P2 two bolts and one at the belay P3 one bolt with natural anchor P4 no fixed gear
By mattb19 From: Depends on the season! Aug 13, 2009 rating: 5.10c
Hey John thanks for another great route. I do have a tip for people on the 3rd pitch. As you reach 150ft up the route start looking right for the alcove that John speaks of. It is about 25ft right of the water streak. As for gear we used gray to yellow TCU's, double blue and yellow. We also used a .5 camalot and a 2.5 tech friend. as for nuts we took a single set and bring some small ones. As John notes don't pass up gear when you see it due to there is not much.
Matt what did you think of the protection? Did the route seem too runout in places? Comments from the 3rd ascent made me think we should add another bolt or two on the second and third pitches. I would prefer to leave it as is but at the same time it's super good rock and I'd like it to be a route most people can enjoy.
By mattb19 From: Depends on the season! Aug 17, 2009 rating: 5.10c
You know John I thought the route did not seem to bad. I think it could use a bolt on the second pitch above the crux bolt. I don't think it is a must but would be nice. Other than that I think the route seemed fine and had plenty of pro. Places where it seemed run out were fairly easy climbing. I say leave it as is.
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