Big - T 

The Big T is a stunning route for the Sandias. Rock quality is great. I found the last pitch to be harder than 5.10C even though it was my partner who lead that pitch (perhaps 10.d is more accurate), but then again I may be getting old.

From a historical note this route starts about 25 feet to the left of Threshhold (see old Hills sandia guide), which is again about 25 feet to the left of the bush shark spire start.

The first pitch ends at a 2 bolt belay and is about 25 feet to the left of the second pitch of Threshold. Big T follows the bolt line on the face up until it joins a crack system. The 2nd pitch of Threshhold uses the beautful hand crack on the right to work through the face, and then at the pin in the roof moves left to join the main crack system.

Big T joins the original Threshold route for the last 60 feet of pitch 2, ending in a 2 bolt belay. Threshold ends at the same spot, but was usually a marginal belay station with numerous small pieces - now you can use the big fat bolts for the belay!

Big T goes straight up with hard face climbing following the line of bolts. Threshold moves directly left from the belay to joint the large left facing dihedral-gully all the way to the top.

Note on these raps - the top bolts are very hard to locate. They are out on the point that has a tree, but are about 20 feet down the ledge, and are blocked from view above by a block... the gulley to the north can be done in about 15 mintues, bushy but is much faster than setting 2 raps.

This route made for a great morning in the Sandias. Most of the rock quality was great, and the third pitch was thought provoking with all the balancy movement required. Small gear is helpful on the third pitch.

I am questioning if we may have been off route for the final fourth pitch because we did not see any bolted anchor and belayed from a tree at the summit.

Climbing the third pitch, it appears that there is another bolted route just to the right of Big T that joins it at the third belay anchor. We initially thought it was the Threshold route but looking at Alam's note above, it likely was not. It sounds like the threshold route branches left after the second pitch, while this line of bolts was to the right. They use the same bolt hangers as Big T, so I am assuming that the same individuals bolted the route. Does anyone have any idea what this route is?

Anthony,

The route to the right is Blood in the Water. Which is full bolted but you will need some finger sized cams to set the anchor for your belayer at the bottom of the pitch, in the notch btwn bush shark spire and the wall.

The FA party for the Big T included, Lance Hadfield, Ian McMillan, Lee Brinckerhoff and I belive Marc Beverly drilled some of the bolts as well. The route was put up in August of 2005 over 3 days.

The first bolt of the second pitch does not tighten down (as of Spring 2008). I had a nut tool/wrench and it just spins in the hole. Also the second bolt of the crux pitch may be bad. I didn't try tightening it down, since it's cruxy there, but it was loose. Sure made the climbing seem harder, I thought it was .11-.

The first time I climbed the route (Summer 2006), the bolts looked fine. I assume someone fell on the bolt on the crux pitch to loosen it.

Did it in the summer of 2008 again and didn't notice anything wrong with the bolts.
This route has cleaned up nicely. I think it's better and more sustained than Yucca Flower Tower, which would, IMHO, make it the best line in the canyon for the general length and grade.

Maybe someone tightened them back down?

Does anyone know when the bolt was added to the third pitch where you traverse out left? I climbed the Big T in May and thought that it seemed really hard since I used the one hand hold for a piece of gear. Man the climb is much easier now with that bolt. I kinda of enjoyed it without the bolt.

The bolt was not "ADDED", it was replaced after some unknown party decided to chop it. You can still see the broken off stud near-by. The original bolt was put in by the FA party for the reason you cite as well as the fact that the gear that goes in that litttle pod is not all that great. Lets hope this does not happen again, if someone doesn't like a bolt they could always skip it, really what is the point...are they trying to say that they are a bigger BAD A$$ than everyone else, routes are not allowed to be safe and convinient???

I guess I did not notice the chopped bolt the first time. I was so gripped from trying not to fall. That is too bad someone chopped that bolt.

I swung by Stone Age climbing gym where I spoke with Brian and Lance about some bolt chopping that has been going down in the Sandias. I haven't participated in the online climbing community very much over the years, but feel that I should start being a little more active on sites like MP so that I can get to know others in our climbing community a little better. I spend a lot of the year climbing in other parts of the country so I am not always around to get to know everyone first hand. I would like to clarify myself by saying that "No, I have not chopped anyones bolts in the Sandias". I do have a life of my own and don't find the time to escapade in such activities. I find it hard enough for me to juggle all my personal projects and lifes activities to begin with. I respect the first ascensionist and believe that a route should remain in the state that it was created. I agree with Lee that one should simply skip the bolt. I have free soloed many routes in the Sandias that have fixed gear and I am not about to chop or remove anything off these classic routes just because I climbed them in a different style. I am however guilty of talking smack when it comes to bolts being added to routes that have been done without them for years or were put up by guys rocking it in the 60s and 70s. I do feel that bolting ethics are something that should be discussed more openly in the climbing community as opposed to fighting over something that we are all trying to enjoy. If a good gear placement is present then I think its light duty of someone to place a bolt just because they do not know their rock craft. I also hope that other climbers who step onto my routes do not add bolts to bring the routes down to their level. If you can't climb something that has been done without the use of bolts then it's ok...simply go climb something that is within your comfort zone and leave the other routes to climbers who are seeking that extra adventure and personal experience. I have been climbing in the Sandias since I was a kid and I love the place! It is great that other climbers are establishing new routes for all of us to experience and I think that their hard work should be respected. I know first hand how much work it takes to establish new routes in the Sandias. I have not climbed Big T, but would definitely like to check it out one of these days! Ok, ok....enough spray...time to go bouldering! If anyone would like info or would like to connect feel free to email me on my personal email at Kevmountainman@yahoo.com. Happy and safe climbing and I hope to meet you out on the rock!