Keeping with the theme names of the area, Hammerhead starts to the right of Bush Shark Spire Route and left of the Bush Shark Gully.
P-1: Keeping the riff-raff off, the heady start follows the bolted line up and to the right to the gully for a quick rest. Then cruise out left and up over bulging terrain to the large red overhang where you'll traverse nearly straight left to the hidden but nice belay stance.
P-2: A fixed nut should start you off on the gently overhanging and sustained left-trending fissure that eventually opens up and grants you some good gear placements. Clean falls may be enjoyed in a very aesthetic venue.
Rap the route or down climb to the Bush Shark Spire Route rap (two sets of bolted anchors to the ground) from the notch. Or, better yet, climb Blood In The Water, 5.12c 17 bolts, and another easier trad pitch (5.8) after that to gain the top rap anchor station.
By LeeAB Administrator From: ABQ, NM Aug 6, 2008 rating: 5.12a
Depending on who you talk to the first pitch is anywhere from 5.11 to 5.12- and the second pitch is 5.11+ to 5.12. That said I think the first pitch is 5.11c/d and the second is 5.12a and probably the most continuously steep 5.12- in the range. I do have a concern about the 1st pitch, when I was bolting this about 2/3 of the way up you climb into a small left facing dihedral formed by a block on your right, this block seemed like it would be hollow but I could not get it to budge, it seems to me the last time I was up there as if it had actually gotten looser, the route could be redirected slightly left onto the arete at this point and I don't think it would be any harder and would need 1 or 2 bolts and of course pull the one in the dihedral. Just looking for input from others that have been on it and to say if anyone gets real anxious to feel free to do this as I'm not sure when I'll be able to get out and do it myself if people think this is the right thing to do.
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