1st Pitch; 100 ft Start up the wide crack to the top of the flake, can use a #3 Camalot here but not necessary. Continue up the steep thin crack (crux) to a right facing dihedral. From here angle right on easier ground to the anchor for the bolted routes or continue up another dihedral to belay at the large tree.
2nd pitch; 120 feet From the belay follow the crack past a fixed piton. The Sandia Classics guide mentions the start is difficult to protect, but I didn't find it any worse than other Sandia climbs at the grade. Continue up the crack for a ways until the crack gives way to block terrain. Angle slightly right on better than it looks rock to a slight notch. Top out and belay off the tree.
Location
Continue past the La Luz mine passing Insane Clown Posse and Sister Sledge, 10 ft left of Sister Sledge is the starting flake of Miss Piggy.
Protection
Standard Sandias rack up to #2 camalot. Can place a #3 at the start if desired. Could probably fit it on the second pitch as well if needed.
By Ryan Smyth From: Albuquerque, NM Apr 30, 2008 rating: 5.8
The first pitch of this climb is great. Some nice liebacking in the start. The second pitch isn't quite as great as the first one. I'd recommend bypassing the bolts and belaying from the tree. Unless you just want to do the first pitch and rap to the start.
Tuesday, Aug 18th, 4:30 PM, RB and I meet at the Marriot (LA and I40), drive up to the top, zip down and do Miss Piggy.
Neither of us had done the climb in probably over 15 years. Ron tops out just as the sun sets. If we'd paid a bit more attention on starting the second pitch correctly (left of the tree, not right) we'd have had a bit more of a time window.
What a fun route. The first pitch layback is just classic Sandia 5.8 layback over a bulge (Happy Gnome, etc...)
We both thought the 2nd pitch was all quite good, well protected, bit interesting to get started then nice pro, jams, etc... to the top.
We'd both remembered it being kinda typical Sandia hash but the rock quality was really pretty darn good.
Looks like the Estrellita to Piggy link up would make for one fun outing.
Has anyone done her in one 70M pitch ? Rope drag reasonable if you bring enough long runners ?
RSS Feed
