Wendy, just before starting to Simul the fourth cl...
Description
The long NW ridge of the Thumb is one of the great ridge routes in the Sandias. Although the climbing itself is mediocre, the position the climber finds his or herself in is memorable, as he or she climbs up on an exposed ridge with great views of Upper La Cueva Canyon to the left and the Rio Grande valley to the right.
Pitches 1&2: From the 'rope-up' ledge 150' up the NW ridge, ascend 2 pitches of 5.4-5.5 cracks beginning on the arete, then moving to its left (you could stay directly on the arete at 5.7 climbing and more exposure).
Pitch 3: A steeper section with an old ring piton marks the 3rd (crux) pitch. A short series of balance moves gets one past the crux section, continue up easier cracks left of the arete.
Pitch 4: Traverse to the right side of the arete, then climb up a short slab section, ascend 40' of chimney to a belay and easier ground. [Alternatively, you may be able to stay left of the arete for the start of this pitch, passing a fixed pin, then move right to the arete just below the chimney.]
Pitches 5-8: Above the chimney, 1000' of scrambling up mostly 3rd class, with occasional 4th class moves remains, with precipitous drops to enjoy on either side. When you reach the first false summit (the West summit), drop down into the notch beyond it, and a 30' section of 4th class gains the higher (East) summit.
Generally, multiple variations are possible on the 5th class pitches, with the easiest passage being marked by the lack of 'rock lettuce'.
Although one guidebook warns to allow a full day for this climb, a competent party comfortable simulclimbing or soloing on easier terrain will be able to complete this route in a few hours. Retreat from this route would be time- and gear-consuming; in most instances, continuing over the top and down the standard SE Ridge descent would be recommended.
Location
The Thumb is the prominent twin summited rock south of the La Luz Trail; the NW ridge ascents the right skyline as viewed from the upper parts of the La Luz. Hike down the La Luz ~1hr to the last West facing switchback before the trail crosses from the S to the N side of La Cueva Canyon. Follow a small trail west (if you cross some rusty water pipes in the first 30', you're at the right place) and ascend to a large ledge and tree directly on the NW ridge, where the route begins. A direct start 150' lower is possible as well.
Protection
Standard Sandia rack, most will be fine with a single rack up to 3". Long runners are recommended to minimize rope drag. An ancient ring-pin protects the crux move (and can be backed up with gear).
A nice day when linked with the Knife Edge of the Shield and then a casual tram ride back down.
By Chris Wenker From: Santa Fe Jun 8, 2009 rating: 5.6
Maybe it's just me, but Hill's route drawing in the 'Hikers and Climbers Guide' seems to be an impressionistic painting rather than a useable topo. We missed the pin on P3, but did find a fixed ring piton near the start of our P4 (maybe the same one mentioned by Schein?). Our P5 was really short though, so I'm not sure where Hill's P5 would go. Wherever you climb, though, it'll all go at <=5.5/5.6.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Jun 10, 2009
I used that guide once to find a route on Muerella Grande. We ended up on the completely wrong route. I would think you did well in at least you found the route! I have not been super impressed with that guide. Sandia Rock is much better.
This really is a cool ridge to climb up. It looks highly improbable at times but then you sneak on through. I found the rock on the 5th class sections to be ok. Protection was fine. I was very happy to find that the rock on the 4th class scrambling section was better than the belayed sections of the route. For a Sandias route it felt pretty mellow since you just cruise on down La Luz trail, make a quick scramble up to the belay ledge, and you don't have to rap at all.
This was pretty much the standard rock climb for the New Mexico Mountain Club in the 1950's. The route then avoided the first two or three pitches on the ridge by going to the left and then up a grubby/bushy chimney.I remember Charles "Bill" Williams leading a 8 or 9 man/woman rope up this climb around 1956. The club was hurting for leaders back then. It sure took all day.
RSS Feed
