Start 5 meters right of the inset that is the beginning of The Second Coming. Your back is to the chimney canyon trail. This start is R and more fun, note there is crack way right for pro though off route enough to be pain for second. Climb 10m to a bulge and continue through the right facing bushy chimney to clean 5.8 OW (right of Rapture). Belay at a two bolt anchor that is shared with Rapture.
Pitch 2 (5.7+):
Climb straight up from the rapture bolt anchor through chossy 5.5 to a cool block. Climb the block to a stance( small ledge) just about 20 feet left of The Second Coming. There is a small crack for a belay at your feet. You are Left of Second Comings large left facing dihedral.
Pitch 3 (5.10 r or 5.10 x):
Climb straight up through interesting terrain. Pass over a bulge at the base of a large right facing dihedral (part of Second Coming) onto clean lower face. climb near an arete on right side of the face(5.10R) with tricky pro. It is more fun to climb face left through the 10x section. Way left is reckoning(TR from bolts)XXX 12a/b. Climb the lower face to a large upper headwall thin crack (10-). This crack is left of bolt/piton. The route summits to the right of Reckoning's anchor.
Liar King is link up from the ground to the headwall.
It's more fun than choss fest that is Second Coming.
Location
Start 5 meters right of the inset that is the beginning of The Second Coming.
Protection
P1: 4.5 Camalot P2: standard Camalot rack P3: double set of thin cams and small brass RP and HB offsets
Second pitch has some scary loose stuff, including a large death block. Could use some cleaning. Watch yer step...lots of people can be below as Muralla gets some action in good weather. Noticed this with A Mason last year....trundled anything yet Andrew?
I don't know what Liar King is but it is not the route you describe above. The route described by Nick is Second Coming and Andrew describes a variation of Second Coming. The route is a long established classic and I've been climbing Second Coming the way you describe Liar King for 18 years. I have done the route 30+ times and what you describe is certainly not anything new.
please excuse the confusion . When nick d submitted this route hes described 2nd comming var
there is better description above now . still not sure on fixed pro . climbed it without again, might want to place piton though hard onlead . this is 5.10 for 5.11 leader. Sorry got busy and diddnt update.
Sorry John I believe you are not on route either, 2nd comming Var is old this aint it . No climbs on lower face below headwall that I know of. this is direct route to thin headwall crack . And yes all head wall cracks are old though always chingas to tie to bunghole or 2nd comming. my routes links those classic headwall cracks to terra firma.
Fishing for a 5.9 first ascent right next to Second Coming ensures you are doing a second ascent of something somebody got lost on two decades ago and never bothered noting their climb. Telling John he is off route on Second Coming is even funnier.
Draw a good topo to show where the routes are relative to one another. That will make it much easier for those who would like to do the climb.
lets go climbing,, ill show you,, draw it for me,, ive tried not my thing. I hope to be out there next week. climbed it again Its chalked up for you , I know your all sure of your selves but Im telling you its a great free route. And it aint a VAR unless the wall is 2nd comming and you just climb anywhere. Doesnt matter to me i climb for me. just began to try and document more when working away from climbing areas now im bach who cares.. not a socialite anyway. It goes direct 5.10ish ON lower face all the way to top of upper head wall . pro is tricky though be careful. Im ready to add bolt to it this winter if get to it. Might finish reckoning first.
What is up with the arete far far right of lower yucca? climbed lower 10+ start sure seemed like it would go way more direct to ledge below clean super chalked up VAR.??Its just left of the right gully
Wow, I thought this route was rated 5.9 now that its getting a 5.10+ X rating I have to admit I'm intrigued. I would really like to check this route out but I'm not completely clear where it goes from the description. Some of the features described I'm very familiar with. The pitch 1 5.8OW is Second Coming then to anchors on Rapture, sure I'm still with you. Pitch 2 is where the confusion comes but I think I understand where you are talking about. Pitch 3 sounds like you're left of Second Coming on what might be some cool new terrain and heady as well. From the ledge and the 1 bolt/pin anchor it sounds like you are heading up the classic 10a on the headwall. Again a topo or picture would be really handy.
Other than the low pitches, which have certainly been done before (or least in various forms), isn't the real climb here the beautiful face just below the headwall ? The one you stare down while hanging off the headwall belay ?
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