Flake n' Bake 

It is reasonable to walk off to the east, if you have a reason to avoid rappelling.

Nice easy climb thats great for the beginning trad leader. I always take the leftmost flake to the top, increases rope drag and difficulty but not a whole lot. After a trip or two up it it makes a fun freesolo. but bring your rope to rap back down. i would hate to scramble off.

I love this route. I climbed it first when I knew almost nothing about climbing. It was a pure, unfettered experience that kicked off and inspired my life of climbing. I wonder how many have been intrigued and inspired by this little piece of excellent granite.

In the winter, the sun has to peek up over the south ridge of the canyon to start warming up the south-facing rock here. On December 21st, the sun reached down to the middle of pitch 1 at roughly 10:30 AM.

Copied comment from Flake n' Bake area page: My impression is that a certain technique (not lieback) in the section just below the flake makes the route Flake n' Bake about 5.5; even so, 5.5 may be a little "old school".

A fun climb. Well worth doing especially for newer leaders. I felt comfy and safe the whole time.

The left facing dihedral immediately to the right goes at about the same difficulty as flake'n bake, but the pro is a little sketchy in the middle (small pocket in the crack will take a #3-4 stopper, but really shallow placement).

One star!? Tough crowd! I found this climb to be extremely enjoyable. Excellent rock, bountiful gear, and a clearly defined line. Fun!

Ditto Jason P's comments; just a great, easy little route that's an excellent intro to climbing trad. And many TR options all around when you're done. Try to score Barry and Rita's "yellow book" - it rocks.
And regarding the grade; there is not a single 5.7-5.8 move on this route, unless you're in stilettos. It's not picky about pro and given the low angle, you can take a rest pretty much anytime you'd like, IMO, and I'm a hack. Defintely 5.5, MAYBE 5.6 at the "roof".
I was up there in the spring and there's a new 2BA at the end of the super easy, 5.4ish 2nd pitch - a nice replacement for all the tat that used to hang up there. Thanks to whoever dropped those in.

Doug and I climbed yesterday 10/25. This was a great route for doing my second and third traditional leads. Didn't go all the way to the top anchors, we treated the (seemingly) optional start from below as the start. If you come in below the canyon there is a reasonably 5.easy slab section to the left, or a more scramble section off to the right. We free'd a portion of the slab to the left then roped in about 80 ft to the first anchors on the "Lunch Ledge". We'll do it differently next time and get to the top.

I agree about the statement you can rap with a 60m rope, but do be careful since it will come up short of the ledge by 6-8 ft.