Sep. 2, 2006. Carl Devendorf, my older brother, is...
Description
A well protected crack on good rock. Touted by the Sandia Rock guide as "The best 5.8 in the Sandias". The crack begins at the right end of the formation and continues to a right facing dihedral. Midway up this dihedral (not far past a piece of fixed pro- an old stuck cam), you will step left, out of the dihedral, and onto the face. Continue up the crack system to the top of the climb.
Protection
Gear: 1 set of cams to #2, set of nuts. Anchors: Gear (cams and nuts, cannot remember sizes.) Descent: Walk off by scrambling into a gully at the southside of the formation. Easy fifth class downclimbing.
A pseudo 3-pitch climb can be done, when combing Estrellita with Miss Piggy. Once topping out on Estrellita walk off the formation and continue heading east for 20 yards, pass the La Luz mine and climb Miss Piggy; another 3-star 5.8 route 2 pitches in length.
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 2, 2007 rating: 5.8
Super fun line with great pro, solid rock, good moves and easy access! Definitely recommended!
I did not see any pitons or other gear at the top of the formation to belay from. Perhaps I just didn't look hard enough but I'm guessing they've been removed.
By Ryan Smyth From: Albuquerque, NM Apr 30, 2008 rating: 5.8
Awesome climb. Our first ever trad climb which makes it a favorite for sure. Great pro all the way up on some real solid rock. Reccommend to all. Guide books say there are bolt anchors at the top. There aren't. Be prepared to belay off of gear.
Bolts were chopped by a local who informed the bolter that they would be chopped. The chopping was justified IMO, it is very easy to walk off. The gear anchor is good.
By Robin From: Albuquerque, NM May 23, 2009 rating: 5.8
An excellent climb. The top anchor takes large or medium nuts and hand/finger-ish sized cams. The walk off is mellow, no need for fixed pro on top.
By Bryan T From: Albuquerque, New Mexico Oct 17, 2009 rating: 5.8
Used a #4 Camalot at the bottom as a directional (options for other stuff). And a #3 somewhere. Could use a #3 at the top for the anchor as well. We sewed this up, used several cams in the .75-2 range. Super fun moving from the Dihedral to the second face/crack.
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