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DescriptionThe La Luz trail, running from the foothills of the Sandias to the Sandia Crest, runs directly through this canyon. There is a high concentration of stellar routes on the rock within Upper LaCueva Canyon. Also, in comparison to many other routes within the Sandias, the approaches can be shorter and easier. Getting ThereThough the routes within this canyon can be accessed from the lower part of the canyon (Juan Tabo Picnic Area in the foothills of Albuquerque), it is much easier to access them from the Sandia Crest. The La Luz trail begins on the South end of the Sandia Crest parking lot. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for La Cueva Canyon, Upper:
Northwest Ridge 5.5 Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III The Thumb
Northeast Corner 5.6 Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80 feet Donald Duck
The Cave Route 5.7 Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 360 feet, Grade II The Pulpit
Miss Piggy 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 220 feet Hole in the Wall
Beat Around the Bush 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100 feet Estrellita
Estrellita 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110 feet Estrellita
Pub Draught Guinness 5.8+ Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100 feet Science Friction & Windward...
The Happy Gnome 5.8+ Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III Yataghan
Aviary Ort Overhangs 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II The Thumb
Clean Sweep 5.10a Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100 feet Estrellita
Mountain Momma 5.10c Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III Torreon
Featured Route For La Cueva Canyon, Upper
Wizard of Air 5.12a NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Torreon
Pitch 1 (5.11-) follows bolts and gear to a ledge and bolted belay that is located somewhat near the beginning of Wizard of Odd (Most folks start Wizard of Odd by scrambling around the south end of the Torreon and up a gully onto a ledge that is about 80 to 90 ft off the ground).Pitch 2 (5.10-) follows obvious seams up into a short left-facing dihedral, exiting right beneath a small roof to a small ledge with a bolted belay. The upper section of...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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