Great climb for the grade! Yet another slabby Palomas route. Clip a highish bolt (climbing not too bad, however) after the chossy rock band, and continue up through the scooped rock. There is a nice crack to the right, making two ways to go at the third bolt. Staying right has 5.7 moves, heading left goes at about 5.10.
A good route, and a quick way to get a pair of warmups in. Go 5.8 first, and then on the second run, stay left of the last few bolts. It is a super fun 5.10 variation, and not too hard, so it makes a good 2nd warmup. Or conversely if you lead 5.8, and not 5.10 it is an easy way to get a 5.10 up on TR to play on!!
By Bryan T From: Albuquerque, New Mexico Oct 9, 2009
I'd almost recommend this for the left 5.10 route. Has some great moves and goes about 10a. 2 Stars on the right. 3 stars on the left.
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