Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountainproject!
As noted by Tim Toula in Rock and Road, "The west is still wild as far as climbing in New Mexico goes." Though difficult to compare to Utah or Colorado in terms of amount of climbing, the diversity of climbing around the state is tremendous.
While there are many routes in New Mexico currently documented, many are currently UN-DOCUMENTED. Please, add new areas and new routes as you set and climb them, so that others may enjoy these fine climbs!
NORTHERN NEW MEXICO
Areas from the Colorado/ NM state line to Interstate 40 (though not including around the Albuquerque Area). Areas are Listed from North to South.
- Sugarite State Park: A 40-50' basalt cliff with a variety of fun vertical cracks & face climbs.
- Kokopelli Spire: An adventurous sandstone spire in Northwest New Mexico.
- Brazos Cliffs: A wild span of cliffs in Northern New Mexico, just south of Chama. Unfortunately, this area is on private land and access is difficult.
- Taos: Outside the beautiful town of Taos, there is a unique topography that enables a variety of climbing, ranging from the several basalt crags in the Rio Grande Gorge, to the lowland and easily accessible granite of Tres Piedras, alpine granite Questa Dome, and sandstone.
- El Rito: Great sport climbing, think mini-maple canyon (Utah). Great slabby to overhanging cobblestone routes. Some mellow traditional climbing here as well.
- Jemez Valley Area: From granite to welded tuff to travertine; single pitch, multi-pitch, and bouldering, this area has various types of rock and styles of climbing and bouldering in the beautiful setting of the Jemez Mountains! This area includes: Gilman Tunnels, Battleship Rock, Crystal Cave, Area 37, and Las Conchas.
- Santa Fe Area: Pick your style - exciting sport climbing on granite (you can even get heckled from the roadside!), adventurous alpine, tweaky and technical pockets, or multi and single pitch basalt. It all exists around the capital city of New Mexico.
- New Mexico Navajolands & vicinity: As it is tribal land, climbing is not allowed without special permission. However, it has been included for historical significance.
CENTRAL NEW MEXICO
Includes areas generally South of I-40 and the Albuquerque area south to Truth or Consequences.
- Mentmore: Out there by it's lonesome in the northwestern part of the state, near the town of Gallup. Enjoy single pitch sport sandstone climbing with mostly moderate grades.
- Church Rock: A tower that is also near Gallup. One two pitch route goes up this tower. Beautiful area.
- El Malpais National Monument: Not known as a destination, but some climbing available in the soft Zuni-sandstone bluffs on the east side of the monument.
- New Canyon: Small, little known limestone climbing area near the town of Manzano. Climbs 40-50 foot vertical to less than vertical routes.
- Enchanted Tower: AMAZING sport routes on a beautiful formation. This pocketed tower is home to the best sport climbing in the state.
- Socorro: This area has a series of cliffs and boulders of mixed-quality rhyolite. Great winter area!
SOUTHERN NEW MEXICO
Areas South of Truth or Consequences to the bottom of the state.
- Percha Creek, Hillsboro: Small basalt crag with a series of moderate traditional and sport climbs.
- The Tunnel: Outside the town of Alamagordo. Expect difficult limestone sport climbing here (highest concentration of difficult climbing in the state.)
- City of Rocks: A nice bouldering area northwest of Las Cruces.
- Dona Ana Mountains: Rock is similar to that of the Organ mountains without the long approaches. Bouldering to single and multipitch climbing.
- Organ Mountains: Outside of Las Cruces. Mostly traditional climbing with adventurous route finding(mmmmm spiky things) and long routes.
- Sitting Bull Falls: Remote, but with high quality limestone routes ranging from moderate to wildly overhanging and difficult.
- Last Chance Canyon: Excellent limestone cragging near Queen, New Mexico.
Resources:
"Sandia Rock" by Mick Schein. Sharp End Publishing, 2003.
"Jemez Rock & Pecos Area" by J. Marc Beverly. Sharp End Publishing, 2006.
"Rock Climbing New Mexico" by Dennis R. Jackson. Morris Book Publishing (A Falcon Guide), 2006.
"Taos Rock Climbs & Boulders of Northern New Mexico" by Jay Foley, Sharp End Books, 2005.
New Mexico Climbing Related Links
Online area guides will be posted in appropriate sections. Here is a list of climbing information around new mexico that might be of interest (please let me know if you know of any additional links by adding comments, thanks):
- Some Southern New Mexico Climbing Links (including the Ingraham Organ Mtns. guide, topos for Percha Creek, etc. Not updated frequently but you might find something useful):
For the climber on the road there are a number of small climbing areas in New Mexico that are worth a visit. For sport climbers, the Enchanted Tower and El Rito are probably the best option. Both areas offer steep jug hauling. For traditional climbers; the Sandias, the Organs, Tres Piedras, and Questa Dome are each worth a short visit. The bouldering in New Mexico is also pretty good. Ponderosa and Socorro are two of the more popular bouldering areas.
J. Marc Beverly's book "Jemez Rock & Pecos Area"--Sharp End Publishing (2006) 270 pp. is now on the shelves of your favorite reseller. It retails for $28.
Does anyone know the latest on Sugarite SP? I was surprised not to see it on here since there are some routes still in place. It's a fun crag, hopefully it'll be re-developed someday.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Oct 4, 2007
Please note that comments on the geology of The Dungeon have been moved to The Dungeon area.
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT Feb 1, 2008
Whoever wrote up a brief description of each area on this page, AWESOME! Thank you! Great idea that should spread to each state's page. Super useful.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Feb 4, 2008
Does anyone climb in the El Porvenir canyon outside of Las Vegas? I remember that there were some decent faces most of which hadn't had much climbing activity?
I am going to be traveling to Santa Fe area this fall and I am looking for some classic multi pitch routes to climb close to or on the way to Santa Fe from Arizona. Does any one have any Recommendations .
New Mexico
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